Fuel pressure

smoken02

smoken02

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Feb 6, 2007
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I just installed a vulcan big line kit and a aeromotive 11203 pump on my truck today. Fuel pressure is 15 psi idle and about 10-11psi wide open with the edge on 5x5. Does this seem about right?
 
It works.... 7psi and below is chittsville.

Where are you grabbing the fuel for your gauge? is it a mechanical gauge or electric with sender?
 
Its an electric with the sender. (autometer cobalt) I have a piece of rubber hose threaded into the elbow fitting that goes into the vp. Its about 2ft long and my sender is screwed in that.
 
Just my opinion here....

I like to put the sender or fuel pick up as close to the injection pump as possible and after any filtration, this way you have your best read on what is really at the pump. I know those Vulcan kits (we sell them from time to time) so if your taking it from the tapped 90 fitting that's good for both.

Electric gauges I do not like from an accuracy standpoint, I have replaced both Injection pumps and installed FASS systems for customers and when they leave the shop the pressure is no good.... thread in a mechanical gauge and there is all kinds of pressure..... Somehow the sender or electronic gauge read low and the customer comes in telling us he needs a new lift pump because his FP is low. We now check all pressures mechanically prior to installing anything, and will normally do the same prior to it leaving. Some time electric gauges interpret things differently and I have seen more headaches come when they are in use as opposed to mechanical gauges.

All in all, this is all my opinion and I think you’re ok as long as you’re above the 7PSI mark
 
Heh, don't even worry about 10-11 psi. at WOT I'm at 4-5(not an aftermarket fuel system).


I agree with Jack about the electric gauges and most others will too. When I bought this truck the previous owner had put an electric FP gauge in... it'll be replaced with mechanical ASAP.
 
Boy I wish I would have known that before I spent the 200$ on this electric gauge.
 
smoken02 said:
Boy I wish I would have known that before I spent the 200$ on this electric gauge.
Click to expand...

You will have close to the same amount of coin invested into a mechanical gauge..... and the install is tougher from the stand point of bleeding your lines to get accurate readings.... BUT mechanical is the way to go.

Don't lose the faith.... just find a local diesel freak with a shop test gauge and compare the readings from your current investment to the mechanical equivelent.... it will give you a basis to go by and you should be ok.

Electric senders go bad, so whenever things do not feel right or respond like they should.... check the gauge before going deeper.
 
I have a autometer mechanical fp gauge and the isolator. Do I need anything else? How do you prime the isolator to get the air out?
 
So does this info about senders go for all electric gauges? I was going to change my boost/pyro/trans temp to cobalt electric also, but am reconsidering now.
 
CumminsPOWER said:
Heh, don't even worry about 10-11 psi. at WOT I'm at 4-5(not an aftermarket fuel system).


I agree with Jack about the electric gauges and most others will too. When I bought this truck the previous owner had put an electric FP gauge in... it'll be replaced with mechanical ASAP.
Click to expand...

With only 4-5lbs, you might want to look into that some time soon, unless you enjoy replacing injection pumps... Anything below 7-8ish at WOT is bad.:badidea:
 
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