good setup for a puller?

Mr.T

Mr.T

DPF's are gay
Joined
Dec 28, 2009
Messages
8,030
ok guys, i am in the process of building this motor for my first dedicated pulling truck, im lookin for input on how to set it up for durability and power, the list of mods is as follws:

2000 24 valve motor
II 13mm pump, timing is at 30*
100 plate FF
5k governor springs
ported, polished, and fire ringed head
PDI t4 manifold
motor will not run an intercooler, has custom built W/M system using 10 nozzles
bottom end is stock thus far (14mm main studs and a girdle, good plan or no?)

im still up in the air as far as turbo's go, should i do a large single or a big set of twins? (66mm secondary and s480 primary?)

any suggestions ill be welcomed
 
What class do you plan on pulling in? That will dictate what turbo/turbos you can run. I would also ditch the 100 plate and go with a 0. The girdle probably isn't needed, but the main studs are a nice saftey feature.

What do you have in the plans for a transmission?
 
as for turboes remember around here we have the 2.6, 2.8, and unlimited single class, which twins with max inducer size 3.2 run in the unlimited single class, I would get a 2.8 turbo and run in that class, this is what most are starting to run and will probably be the biggest class for us.
 
JFlagg said:
What do you have in the plans for a transmission?
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i might do a reverser, im not sure yet though, this truck will never be driven on the street again and i dont feel that a 5 speed will be strong enough

kmkdiesel said:
as for turboes remember around here we have the 2.6, 2.8, and unlimited single class, which twins with max inducer size 3.2 run in the unlimited single class, I would get a 2.8 turbo and run in that class, this is what most are starting to run and will probably be the biggest class for us.
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so as far as 2.8 turbos, what do you suggest?
 
SFP12valve said:
i might do a reverser, im not sure yet though, this truck will never be driven on the street again and i dont feel that a 5 speed will be strong enough


so as far as 2.8 turbos, what do you suggest?
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I am in the same ordeal now too, not sure which one i am going to run, but i am thinking s480 bushed down to a 2.8, not sure though, might try a reverse flow turbo setup, just for something different but not sure if it will work or not. If i had the extra money i would probably run a phatshft 71 from II. I got an hx 50 right now that I might bush down to run but not sure yet, i cant decide either.
 
while on the topic of puller alot of people back here over look bumpstops, and suspension set ups, i got blocks welded under my front end so it pretty much solid when my weights are in the box, and the back end, I have bump stops that are adjustable because some pulls we can be solid and some pulls we have to have an inch of travel, so make sure you are set up good there because you dont want the back end to squat at all during the pull and lose leverage, also on that subject, air pressure, alot of guys like running low air pressure, i do in the front but the back i keep aired up so it doesnt compress the tires with the low air and drop and inch or 2 also. try to shed as much weight off the truck as you can so you can put the extra weight on the front, we run nadm rules out here and if you have any questions you can check out the pullers site United Truck and Tractor Pullers
, i ll help you out anyway i can, the more pullers the better.
 
thanks for the advice Nic, the truck its going in is a regular cab long bed 1st gen, its already pretty much gutted and lightened up, i built a weight rack for it, blocked the front suspension and have blocks under the rear that allow about 2 inches of travel, traction bars are built too, im tryin to figure out how im gonna build the reciever hitch so it wont get torn off:hehe:
 
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If your going to a reverser and such in the driveline. Get you an ag gov 13mm. Forget about the plates and all that stuff. And don't worry about having 2" of travel in the rear. With the class you will have to pull in with the open driveline, you are allowed solid rear ends. Also, don't block your front suspension. Then sky is the limit really when it comes to turbo choices. And get yourself a girdle if your going this far. Your build with an open driveline is looking to be in the $50,000-$70,000 range depending on how competitive you want to be. And building it to stay together is a must.
 
What is the thought process to run blocks on the front? I wouldn't worry about a reverser right now either, there are plenty of big HP trucks that 5 speeds live in. Seems like they have a bigger problem with rear ends breaking.
 
2Tone12V said:
If your going to a reverser and such in the driveline. Get you an ag gov 13mm. Forget about the plates and all that stuff. And don't worry about having 2" of travel in the rear. With the class you will have to pull in with the open driveline, you are allowed solid rear ends. Also, don't block your front suspension. Then sky is the limit really when it comes to turbo choices. And get yourself a girdle if your going this far. Your build with an open driveline is looking to be in the $50,000-$70,000 range depending on how competitive you want to be. And building it to stay together is a must.
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Not when you have the gm14 bolt rear end underneath your truck!
 
1st Gens are light already. I dont get blocking the front suspension at all!?!? Good traction bars and blocks in the rear are a must.
 
Since you are planning an open driveline truck I agree with 2tone and go ahead and get the girdle... not too expensive for what you get really. I would also agree with the ag gov. but if you have the pump already you can still make alot of power and RPMs with an auto gov. A build NV4500 with big input and a strong triple disc can be very durable... would outlast almost any 1 ton rear end you can build.
 
thanks for the input guys, im kinda tryin to build this for when i go all out, im tryin to source a rockwell 106 rear right now, i ordered a profab reverser yesterday, so thats taken care of, i'll keep ya'll posted in the progress
 
Honestly I would just cancel the order for the reverser now and dump that money in other places.

Like Anthony said putting a reverser in takes you up to bigger classes and is gonna cost you BIG money to build.

What are you running for pistons, cam, springs etc? I would worry about building all that up before busting out a reverser.

Also I dont get running blocks in the front????? :what:
 
the theory behind blocking the front was so that i could strap it down and keep it from bouncing, but i guess that wont work so scratch that idea. as for the reverser, i decided a built NV4500 would be a better idea for now, so im pickin one up from holst truck parts on monday and i ordered my iron giant yesterday with the big input, im gonna have to do some custom work for the pedals since this was an original automatic truck.
 
Just source pedals from the junk yard. Under your dash is already set up for a clutch pedal. Moonlight made his front end solid last year and he bounced so bad he tore out every axle in the truck. I run bump stops but only so the oil pan wouldn't hit the pumpkin witch is on the passenger side of my truck. I am still running 4500. So you should be fine
Jason
 
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