gsk shim ?

stovepipe

stovepipe

New member
Joined
Sep 21, 2007
Messages
215
sorry for the ? but the direction's for 4 gsk kit say to leave the big spring in but make sure there are no shims so I pulled out the big spring and there was one shim on one side and two on the other, I did not put the shims back but I did put the big springs in is this right? And I noticed that some web site does it different than other far as going in through the side plug or straight down which way is right I went in from the side I did not trust my magnet to go in from the top. Thanks for any help
 
Look up user smokem he is the gsk guru. He shows how he recomends setting them up also and has had very good feedback from people who have tried it. Very nice guy.$.02
 
Take all the shims out. Go through the side, it's easier. I will find my long winded description describing my cds 5k install. The tension setting the fact that you remove the seat with my 5ks are pretty much the only difference.

Here is my post. Like I said the difference is with your 4ks you will remove all the shims and return the lower seat into the pump after doing so. Also, 1 initiation click plus 2 or 3 always worked best for me. Good luck!

You will be installing the springs by going through the port on the side of the injection pump. You will need to remove the fuel shut off solenoid and the fuel shut off solenoid bracket on the shut off pin of the pump. Make sure that when you loosen the clamp for the shut off bracket around the pin to look for the woodruff key which aligns the bracket. It's on top of the pin setting in the slot of the pin. Make sure to not let it drop or you will likely loose it. Also make sure to take out the cotter pin in the where the bottom of the shutoff solenoid attaches to the shut off bracket. Now that being done take a drain pan of some sort and stick it under the front diff (if you have one). Get a 7/8" socket and loosen and remove the nut/port cap and let the oil pull out on the diff and into the pan. Bigger pan the better.

Now take that same 7/8" socket and place it on the alternator nut. Use it to turn the alternator over which will use the belt to turn the motor over but only if you turn the ratchet in a counter clockwise motion. The motor will not turn unless you turn counter clockwise.

Keep turning and checking the access port. You will notice the governor springs will come into view but you'll have to keep checking the port and turning etc. Make sure to get the spring dead center of the port to avoid any binding issues when removing the retainer and large idle spring.

Start by removing the slotted retaining nut. I can usually remove them with my finger pushing counter clockwise on the slot. To get yourself familiar notice that when you remove it the nut clicks. About 90 degrees the slot will turn during one click. Use a pen magnet to remove the nut once it's free of all clicks. Use the pen magnet to remove the retainer and the springs starting with the outer spring first working your way to the inner spring. Then remove the seat or seats depending on pump (some have two). After that remove all the shims at the bottom, once again this will depend on the pump. The CDS directions will tell you which shims you need to keep. You will not use a spring seat with the CDS kit.

My CDS springs came non-painted although the directions say they should be painted. You will want to install them so that the smaller of the two springs per side (two springs per side or 4 total in the kit) has the end with greater distance to coil bind (distance between coils) going in first. Then the idle spring will go in or put them both in the same time which ever works for you.

Now with clicks I do them by hand. I like to start the nut with a pen magnet and then once I know it's on I turn it by hand. You will notice it turns freely. Once you feel an ever so slight click and then it will no longer turn freely that's the initiation click. Take them 3 or 4 more clicks past that which can also be done by hand. Like I said before about 90 degrees the slot will turn per click.

Good luck, you'll love the springs!!!
 
If I'm reading the question correctly, you're asking if you need to reuse the biggest stock spring? If so, yes you will with the 3k and 4k kits that I've seen. That is also known as the idle spring. I have no experience with the 5k ones but it sounds like they come with a new idle spring.

As for shims, I have always removed all of them and have had no issues doing so. I have never checked it, but I'm guessing that there is not enough change caused by the shims to make it worth retaining them.

After dealing with several different pumps, I've found that different ones also like differing amounts of preload on the springs too. I always keep the preload even on each side, but how much will vary. Usually I end up leaving them set somewhere between 3 and 5 clicks after the initial one.

The only way to find out what your pump likes is by playing around with it. Try some different stuff, you won't hurt anything.

I too prefer going in from the side of the pump to do governor springs. I've never figured out why people think it is easier to reach down from the top, but to each their own. I think going in from the top would promote dropping something. Then you get to go fishing.
 
When i did my 4K kit a couple weeks ago I found 2 shims one side and 1 shim on the other. I took them out and installed the seat(s) like the directions said and set the initial click and then 3 after that. 4 was to much and I got a surge with the cruise....3 seems to be just right for my truck.
 
thanks for all the info, sounds like I am on the right track, however I did not know about the woodruff key, what kind of things happen if this is gone. Also the boot is gone on my solenoid and it as well as the spring came out when I pulled the three screws off, I did not know the boot was gone never even looked at it under there.

I hit 3000rpms in first then about 2800rpms in second.
 
You can get new boots for the solenoid from Foster Truck. Or some have taken a piece of rubber from a bicycle inner tube and fashioned it to fit as well.
 
The woodruff key needs to be there. If it isn't, the truck may not start or shut off. I've got a buddy who spent hours trying to diagnose why his truck wouldn't start because of the missing woodruff key.

I don't worry about the boot. My truck has no boot and hasn't had one for a long, long time. At some point you might have to clean it a bit if you get enough road debris up there, but it is easy enough to do. I personally have never even had to worry about it.
 
does any one have a pic of this I think I understand so it's the lever that the solenoid is pined to. not the three holed braket that two of the holes are on the afc housing
 
I pulled all shims as well including the shims behinf the idle spring, same as yours one shim on one side 2 shims on the other side. The idle setting had to be at 800rpms to work correctly, for the idle to come down properly and not hang high for a little bit then come down. I ended up putting the shims back behind the idle spring and now I can adjust the idle to any place that I want. If it is a PAC Brake the tech dept. told me to live the idle shims in. I told them their directions said to remove all.

Hope this helps.

Roger
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top