guys i need some advice. p pump truck.

96ram

96ram

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Nov 21, 2013
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sorry if i am in the wrong area but this seems right. and i will have a shop do this work fyi after the events that happened i wont be touching the truck.

well here is the long story to lead up to this post and spending a lot of money. well december 2013 i did the racked barrels mod, and it woke the truck up, i knew what i was getting into when i did that mod but 2 months went by and nothing went wrong (and the truck sees wot) well i had wot shifting issues and after talking with the trans builder and driving around and some wot runs, the truck was running out of pwr causing the trans not to shift at 3k rpms. so i did another mod i got a 4gsk from my buddy that owns a diesel shop, and instilled it. and the truck had plenty of power and trans was normal. 2 days past since i had this mod and i was out of town when this happened, the truck had rough running issues, after getting it towed back home. the shop fired it up and it was fine no issues until you hit 2500rpms then thats when it started missing. left it over night and he. said 2 screws on the pump came lose causing the shims to fall out and the rack to be bent. thus needing a new pump. (the trucks been sitting for 2 weeks now) she is sitting at home now waiting on the day to be moved again. (now that i think about it, it showing signs of the older style p pump (94-95 model) that had the stuck plunger issues.

so my buddy has a p pump that he got in a trade he says its a 180 pump but he hasnt ran it because he needed more fuel for his setup. that came off a 24 valve with a 64mm turbo, and he doesnt have the socket for the dv's so i dont know whats been done (is there a way i we can check? so with that being the case what kind of numbers can i expect from this pump spit ball (##) in hp terms. so i wanna say around 300hp. due to the trans build) i really dont want to grind the afc foot stuff like that plus i dont think the shop will do that. plus i dont even know the history of this pump my buddy forgot its been a long time ago.

here is what i plan on doing since the pumps off.
timing to 16
rack plug if needed from cpp (how much extra cc's does this flow? i cant find info about that)
overflow valve if needed. http://www.torkteknology.com/products/TORK-TEK-CUMMINS-ADJUSTABLE-OVERFLOW-VALVE-OFV010.html
the tappet cover gasket mine isnt leaking at this time but might as well get it done while the pump is off.
a adjustable wastegate could i put it on the afc line to make adjusting easy?
putting in my #100 fuel plate (i was running no plate at the time from what i read nothing bad can happen) plus i noticed no gains anyway.
anything else i am missing?


with my old setup should be in the sig, she got hot very quick i could hit 1500 with ease (pre turbo) at 38lbs of boost. i know i am outside the hx35's map. before the gsk mod i did good to hit 1400 and it took a like 5 seconds i think.

i will make a new thread about asking for turbo advice if needed. (i am not looking for a lot of hp at this time, i am scared to test my luck with the stock input shaft. but just something to keep me cool.
but i am hoping the bhaf will keep me cool, i noticed i could pull the air filter minder down i think a whole yellow mark after a wot pass with the setup i have.

i guess being cheap bites you in the butt. sooner or later.


what i dont get i made sure all the bolts were tight when i did the racked barrels mod, but why would the gsk+racked barrels cause the issues i have?

thank yall for any advice.
 
What bolts was he talking about? You said you took your fuel plate out, did you put those two bolts back in or leave them out? I guess I could maybe see those coming loose if there was enough room?

If you didnt tighten the governor spring nuts at all, then those came off, and the shims flew out, I guess that could do it too.

For 300rwhp, you can probably make that with the free ppump mods without even racking your barrels. You might need gov springs.
I would send the new pump to a shop to be flowed and balanced on a bench and gone through. Tell them exactly what you're looking for and I am sure they will help you get there. Chances are it's got way too much fuel for you right now if that guy was running a 64 and making power (you can probably get around 650rwhp with a good 64).
 
the ones next to the dv on 5 and 6 (on the ones on the right side) (i am not sure how those came lose i made sure them things were tight). sorry about that.

when i did the gsk, i did 1 +3 click method, i hear people doing the 1 +4 click and the one i did seem to be perfect.

ya i want to get it gone through, but that would be extra coin that i really dont have at this time. but my buddy said its been souped up a little bit (and he thinks it has a 64 (its been awhile since he bought)
i will be getting a dv socket to see what dv's are in it and that will give me an idea of what fueling this pump is putting out. if i remember correctly bigger injectors are needed. to get 650hp. so that will need bigger dv's what size i am unsure.

i know my buddy said he needed more fueling then what that pump could provide.
 
Last edited:
CorneliusRox said:
You can reach over 1000rwhp with a 12mm pump... What did he have in mind to outflow a ppump?
Click to expand...

i am not sure whats all been done with his truck, my buddies pump is a 215hp, quick rate fuel cam, full cuts i am sure there is more. (from what he said and his pump doesnt retard the timing at higher rack travel.) i think he has a 76mm turbo on it the truck its a 02 24 valve. i know it has enough fuel to break modified drive line i think he broke the carrier bearing out during the first 100ft of the sled pull.
 
96ram said:
i am not sure whats all been done with his truck, my buddies pump is a 215hp, quick rate fuel cam, full cuts i am sure there is more. (from what he said and his pump doesnt retard the timing at higher rack travel.) i think he has a 76mm turbo on it the truck its a 02 24 valve. i know it has enough fuel to break modified drive line i think he broke the carrier bearing out during the first 100ft of the sled pull.
Click to expand...

ahh, you just meant how that pumps sits right now. nvm then.
 
i believe so but we think he is around 800hp. with this setup he has.

so do ya think i am on the right track with this mini build up? i hope to be below 400hp

i guess i will be buying a dv socket later on then go from there. and post back my findings
 
96ram said:
i believe so but we think he is around 800hp. with this setup he has.

so do ya think i am on the right track with this mini build up? i hope to be below 400hp

i guess i will be buying a dv socket later on then go from there. and post back my findings
Click to expand...

Below 400rwhp at sea level, you could stick with your HX35 and injectors, do the free pump mods with original 180pump DV's, toss in gov springs, rack and balance, rack plug, no fuel plate (or modified one), and get where you want to be. Get a slightly stiffer AFC spring and you'll be able to keep it pretty low smoke minus WOT past 30psi or so.
 
Thank ya i am hoping with this pump, I dont have to do much to it. depending on dv's i might replace them. how could i tell if it has a modded afc spring? rack and balance should be easy to spot by looking at the dv holders.

i plan on running either a #0 or my #100 fuel plate after what happened i am leaving nothing to chance this time.

i am not sure what the elvation is here i think i gps'ed it one day around 2k but the ole hx 35 cleaned up the smoke pretty well (of course my exhaust exits under the truck before the back axle so its hard to tell if it had a haze.
 
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