Head gasket went, looking for advice/tips/tricks

C

cummins624

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Mar 18, 2011
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Well guys, head gasket decided it was time to go( my fault for not doing arps sooner:bang) so it's now time to rip the head off. I've been waiting to order all my parts and received the last batch today. Here's what's in the mix... The head is coming off and getting decked, oringed, and a three way valve job. Then it will be getting Hamilton #110 valve springs. When it goes back in the truck ill be doing new gasket(obviously, probably a little thicker then stock), arp 425 head studs, pusher intake, tunnel ram intake plate, Hamilton heavy duty push rods, and a stage three water meth from snow performance.

Future plans include swapping then 64 special for a 62mm and putting an s475 under it. Maybe a little bit bigger injector. But that's about it.

But anyways I'm just looking for any tips/tricks/ or advice on doing this job. Will be doing this out infront of my house as I live in a little town and have a small driveway and too small of a garage. I'm pretty sure I've got it down on how to do the studs. Which is twist them all the way down then back out a quarter turn. Then torque em down to stock spec, then go through all of them. Then go back and increase each one by 10ftlbs every time til I reach 125ftlbs. I then let the motor run for 30-45 mins and retorque to 125ftlbs. Then run them 500 miles and retorque, then the same at 1500 miles. Does this sound about right??? I also read something about after every retorque you loosen them up before re torquing??? Is this true?

Next question is toward the meth kit. I would like to install an on/off switch in the truck so I Can turn it off when truck is cold. Best way to do so?? Also I'm planning on putting the tank in the bed in a tool box, I was thinking of mounting the pump right under the rear cab door. Does this sound ok? I know you have to put it closer to the tank, also thinking the inside of the frame rail? So it's semi away from the tire spray... Last question on the meth is once everything is hooked up and functional how do i check the spray of th nozzles? I know they recommend checking it before you run the truck.

Thank you in advance for any help you can give:thankyou2:
 
Before you put the studs in make sure to use a bottoming tap and thread the head bolt holes all the way to the bottom. From the factory they didn't quiet go all the way with the threads
 
Meh. If it makes you sleep easier at night, bottom tap. Not as big of a deal as people make it out to be IMO.

What makes you feel you need a w/m kit?
 
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If you can't drive it with reasonable egts, I would look into changing the turbo or fueling setup. W/m is a crutch, wouldn't want to have to rely on it.
 
I have plans of doing different turbos in the future. Just not something I can afford at the moment
 
the snow stage 3 kit cost as much as a s475 does.

ya its fine to mount the pump there. you can shut the whole system off with the controller. and just hook everything up but dont put the nozzles into the manifold put between the hood and where the windshield wippers are and have them spray on your windshield.
 
cummins624 said:
. . . The head is coming off and getting decked, oringed, and a three way valve job. Then it will be getting Hamilton #110 valve springs. When it goes back in the truck ill be doing new gasket(obviously, probably a little thicker then stock), arp 425 head studs, pusher intake, tunnel ram intake plate, Hamilton heavy duty push rods, and a stage three water meth from snow performance.
Click to expand...

If this is your DD/street truck I wouldn't do a thicker head gasket, SO VP44 24 valves are only 16.3:1 CR which is almost a full point lower than HO 24V, 12-valves & common rails.
 
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VMacKenzie said:
If this is your DD/street truck I wouldn't do a thicker head gasket, SO VP44 24 valves are only 16.3:1 CR which is almost a full point lower than HO 24V, 12-valves & common rails.
Click to expand...

Only going with a little thicker due to having head decked
 
blackcoal said:
the snow stage 3 kit cost as much as a s475 does.

ya its fine to mount the pump there. you can shut the whole system off with the controller. and just hook everything up but dont put the nozzles into the manifold put between the hood and where the windshield wippers are and have them spray on your windshield.
Click to expand...

Ya wasn't planning on doing twins. But have since realized its a better idea
 
cummins624 said:
Only going with a little thicker due to having head decked
Click to expand...

If you arent running a really aggressive cam then there is no reason to "make up" the material you took off the head(even then thats not the best way to do it). If it were mine id run a stock cummins gasket.

I would also torque the studs to 135ftlbs, but thats just me. I am still running stock bolts with an o-ringed head so what do i know:lolly:
 
I've decked heads up to .008" And have used stock gaskets.
 
No need to go thicker on the gasket unless the block has been machined or you just want to lower the compression, which won't be a whole lot anyway.

If the head is machined, a valve job is a must to keep the recession within factory specs.

I had the head on my 12v machined down .006" and used a stock gasket.
 
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