Head stud clearance problems on the 12valve

jktcummins

24v GOD!!!! HAHAHA
Joined
Apr 1, 2007
Messages
2,450
Ok i was just wondering what people are doing to fix the problem with the head studs touching the valve covers??? I am needing some ideas. Tired of the oil leak.
 
I was able to come up with just enough clearance by milling one of the strengthening ribs out of the valve covers but probably the best solution is to mill down the rocker tower as ARP recommends.
 
Dang i didnt know that ARP recommend milling down the rocker tower. That just sounds crazy. Looks to me like if you mill the tower down you would still have the stud sticking up unless you cut the actuall stud to make it shorter.
 
milling it down is only for the new style. The old style (which you have) you have to take out the webbing.
 
I would venture to say that the motor in his truck has issues with the studs do to two issues.

Decking of the block and surfacing of the head. So, with the old style studs even if you take the webbing out of the covers, you may still have clearance issues.

The studs can be cut down using a lathe, the valve covers can be drilled and have small extension housings tigged on, you can drill the housing and put a breather over each stud, or you could replace the studs with the new style ones.

Before you go through any of that though. Do to the fact that the head on that truck has o-rings and was retorqued a few times. I would back off the nut, then check to make sure that the stud is fully inserted into the block.

I have seen where guys have backed off the nut while performing a re-torque and unknowingly backed out the stud as well. Then when they torqued down since the stud doesn't "screw" itself in, they end up with additional stud protrusion. Might check it out.
 
THat sounds like a good idea. How ever i ended up fixing the clearance problem my self. Its a pritty dang good trick. If you are familar with oil bath hubs on trailers then you will know what the rubber plugs are. You can take a 1 1/8 hole saw and look inside the valve covers and see were the studs are rubbing. Drill a 1/8 hole right in the center for a pilot hole. Then with the hole saw drill it out. Take a die grinder and smooth the edges up. The plug will barley fit in the hole. But is a great fit. I will try to get somepics of what they look like as soon as i can. It is a great and easy fix. The plugs are $3 a piece.
 
I put mine in ..... then put a towel with a small hole over the engine with just that stud sticking out and took a grinder to them and took them down to the nut ....... I can still take the nuts off and the threads are fine ...
 
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