Head stud install

99_SilvrCummins

99_SilvrCummins

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Feb 5, 2009
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I just want to make sure my bases are covered going to be doing a head stud install over Easter break. FYI The studs I am installing are the variation that JKidd handles.

Some people I see pull one head bolts one at a time put the stud in and torque to 90 go through all the bolts in Cummins head torque sequence and then start to increase the torque according to ARP specs.

I don't have any gasket problems now so is it worth taking the head of and replacing it or can I get away with the method above?

Do I have to bottom tap the threads when doing this? If so does anybody know where I can buy a tap long enough to go down through the head and bottom tap the block?

Any other advice is much appreciated.
Thanks for your time.
 
You should be just fine by doing it one at a time. Just make sure your bolt holes are clean before you put your stud in.
 
It's best if you get a bottom tap (they are less tapered on the end ) . Use needle nose pliers to lower the tap in the hole or just drop it in the hole use a 12 point socket 1/4" drive with extention to tap the hole then a pencil magnet to pull the tap back up . Get a straw the will fit into the hole tape it to a vaccum to suck out the crud that is left in the hole .
 
Ok sounds good Thanks for your help and ideas

Dieseldork-I ordered all my joints for my traction bars thank you again for all the advice you gave me. I will send pictures after they are complete.
 
99_SilvrCummins said:
Ok sounds good Thanks for your help and ideas

Dieseldork-I ordered all my joints for my traction bars thank you again for all the advice you gave me. I will send pictures after they are complete.
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Sound good glad I could help you out .
 
I noticed there was no mention of loosening and retoqueing as is recomened by ARP, When i do studs i'll do 2 to 3 at a time, picking bolts that are far away from each other, pull the bolts out and put the studs in and work up to full torque loosen and repeat twice then final torque. Then pull 3 more and keep going till there all done. If you dont bottom tap you will problably have to grind a little off your valve cover so it can sit down all the way.
 
rage_blue said:
I noticed there was no mention of loosening and retoqueing as is recomened by ARP, When i do studs i'll do 2 to 3 at a time, picking bolts that are far away from each other, pull the bolts out and put the studs in and work up to full torque loosen and repeat twice then final torque. Then pull 3 more and keep going till there all done. If you dont bottom tap you will problably have to grind a little off your valve cover so it can sit down all the way.
Click to expand...

I did not know about the multiple torques I will follow ARP's instructions. So do you pull the bolt out tap then run the stud in torque to 90 or all the way to 125? Loosen and repeat?
 
Well i don't tap the holes out if i don't have the head off, i just grind a little off the valve cover on the back and front where the studs hit. I usually take it to 50, then 90 then 110 then 125 or so around there then losen and repeat 3 times. ITs a good idea to gradually bring the torque up, more stages the better, and after all the studs are in recheck the torque on them all. Doesn't hurt to recheck the torques a few weeks after the install is done, they can strech a bit with a few heat cycles. Its also a good idea to set the valves after too seeing as you will have to pull the rockers.
 
since the threads have a tight tolerence, it is suggested you loosen and re tighten 5 times. this will loosen them up enough so that you will not loose tourqe value to friction. so once mine were at 125lb i just went through loosening off and re torqing to full torque a few times one stud at a time. aswell be sure you have lube on both sides of the washer not just the threads.
 
I have read when doing head studs to "properly" install a set you must torque sequence as mentioned above... go through a heat cycle... then re torque... then run say 1000 miles and do it all over again.?.?.

Also HIJACK alert... without doing head studs is it recommended to re torque factory bolts when you do a valve adjustment.?.?. and to what torque spec.?.?.
 
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