Head stud swap

dieseltracks

dieseltracks

lost
Joined
Nov 11, 2007
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I was under the impression that you could install head studs with the engine in the truck, but someone told me yesterday that you couldn't get them started into the holes due to clearance issues with the engine in the truck.

Can you install them with the engine in the truck??
Sorry if it's a dumb question, just want to verify. I don't have the studs yet or I would go try one.
 
Thanks guys.....I thought you could, just wanted to make sure.

Someone sent me a PM which makes me think of 1 more question......
Do you have to bottom tap with the ARP 12mm studs??
I thought I'd read somewhere that you didn't have to.
 
I just blew mine out with an air compressor. Just get out of the way, all the gunk in there smells horrible!!!!!!
 
I would definitely bottom tap the holes, It gives your stud an extra 1/4" of "bite" on the threads in your block and it doesnt take that much more than an hr. to do it right.

Lavon
 
Make sure to torque them right after you put the stud in and go in the sequence. I made a huge mistake and it's costing me a new gasket now.

I used a bottoming tap and some various extensions to tap it. I'll be tapping them again while the head is off and I have more clearance. You can install them though. But like I said...one at a time=remove bolt-put stud in-torque to factory specs then move onto next bolt/stud....ask me how I know.
 
ride42 said:
Make sure to torque them right after you put the stud in and go in the sequence. I made a huge mistake and it's costing me a new gasket now.

I used a bottoming tap and some various extensions to tap it. I'll be tapping them again while the head is off and I have more clearance. You can install them though. But like I said...one at a time=remove bolt-put stud in-torque to factory specs then move onto next bolt/stud....ask me how I know.
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Good info to have.
Thanks :rockwoot:
....ask me how I know.
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:doh: Oh well, at least you were able to pass it on to someone else so they don't make the same mistake. :Cheer:
 
Forrest Nearing said:
work on a duramax or powerstroke... you'll be proposing marriage to those back studs in no time!
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ummm i dont know about that, the back half of the motor:doh: on either truck isnt 2 inches from the top of the cowl:doh: and you dont have to drill holes in the top of the cowl:doh: either to install headbolts/studs/pushrods with the head on. and dont get me started with putting the valve cover back on and having to shove your hand between the top of the motor and insulation the get the bolts back in. but you could still manage it:woohoo: after a little time.

Joe
 
I'm not sure how hard it is on the 24v but I had no trouble at all on my 12v, and I get to do it again this weekend so I will tell you if it goes any easier 2nd time around. I took my time and wore gloves pushed the insulation up out of the way and down they went.
 
turbojoe said:
ummm i dont know about that, the back half of the motor:doh: on either truck isnt 2 inches from the top of the cowl:doh: and you dont have to drill holes in the top of the cowl:doh: either to install headbolts/studs/pushrods with the head on. and dont get me started with putting the valve cover back on and having to shove your hand between the top of the motor and insulation the get the bolts back in. but you could still manage it:woohoo: after a little time.

Joe
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uhh... you gotta lift the CAB off of the frame to do studs on a Powerstroke/Ford
 
ride42 said:
I'm not sure how hard it is on the 24v but I had no trouble at all on my 12v
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X2. I did mine in the truck not to long ago and its not bad at all, even the back ones are easy to get to I think. But thats on a 12V and I cant see a 24V being much harder if any
 
ME. said:
X2. I did mine in the truck not to long ago and its not bad at all, even the back ones are easy to get to I think. But thats on a 12V and I cant see a 24V being much harder if any
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ah the 24v is the same, its not hard. just hated taking off the rockers but their not bad either. If they couldjust move that one bolt over a little :bang I blew mine out with air also, its messy, just stick a rag over the air and hole and youll be fine. I didnt tap mine out either, prolly should of.
 
I would recomend vaccuming out the holes as opposed to hitting them with compressed air, I did the air first and then decided to go back with the vaccum and I got a lot more contaminates out with the vaccum. Just tape a straw or 1' long piece of 3/8" copper tubing to the end of a shop vac hose.
 
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