Head Stud torque sequence?

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sstockton

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May 17, 2007
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Hey guys, I have a couple of questions about studs since I plan on installing mine a little later in the week, and I don't have the directions from ARP since I picked up a slightly used set.

1) I don't have the ARP thread lube, there isn't anything particularly special about this stuff is there? I'm assuming normal thread lube like you would use to install new head bolts should work just the same right.

2) What is the torque sequence for the studs? How tight do the studs themselves need to be, and how tight do the nuts need to be? I've heard 115-125ft. lbs. Is this correct, and is this the same for both? I'm assuming probably do each one in about 4 increasing torque settings.

3) I wanted to just remove and replace my stock bolts 1 at a time, is there any particular order I should do this in? I would think starting in the center and working my way out as though I was starting from having the head removed. Is this a bad idea? Should I just buy and install a new head gasket while I'm in there? Later this spring, or early summer I'm going to pull the head and have it cut for o-rings but I was hoping to just install the studs for now. I don't really plan on running more than about 45-50psi boost until then anyways, and thats on the high end. So if I can get away with switching them out 1 at a time thats what I'd like to do right now.

Thanks,
Sean
 
I say double check your stock bolts and run them untill you ring the head and then do your studs IMO.
Brandon
 
What about re-torquing my stock bolts a little bit. Should I back them off and re-torque or or just give them a little extra? I would hate to snap one. The reason I'm doing this, is I'm installing a small set of twins on the truck. I'm not really sure how much boost it will put out, but it shouldn't be high. And I just don't want to encounter any issues if I end up running over 40psi boost. But I have heard re-torqued bolts will help you get above that.

So, I guess a little info on re-torquing the head bolts might be nice.
Thanks.
Sean
 
You can put the studs in but you need to bottom-tap the holes. Pull out the stock bolts one at a time starting in the middle then tap the hole and install the stud, torque it in several steps to 100 ft lb. Work your way on the head in a counter-clockwise movement working outwards. After they are all installed start in the middle and use the same pattern taking the studs up to 125 ft lbs in small increments. (100, 110, 120, 125 is pretty good)
 
Someone will chime in for stock bolt retorque I would just do this beacuse you are going to be pulling the head in the near future and then you can bottom tap and install your fresh studs with your ringed head and gasket but "to each his own" this would seem to me to be a good idea but.......
Brandon
 
I'll do a little searching on the stock head bolts. Bottom taping would be a lot easier with the head off thats for sure.
Sean
 
I think I'm just going to make it simple and just pull the head now. I'll at least replace the gasket while I'm in there, if I can't get it cut for o-rings this weekend. Because I have to have it back together pretty quickly. And I'm just a little leary of re-torquing stock bolts that are 8 years old with 130k on them, and I get new bolts I'll have to bottom tap anyways.
Thanks for the advice and opinions though guys, and help figuring out the torque sequence.
Sean
 
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