head ?

02goldie

02goldie

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Dec 9, 2008
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a while back i saw someone on here a " sled puller" who had never blown a headgasket on a 24v 2nd gen pushing 60 to 70psi not sure though and i was wondering if you had to retorque the head to a sertain ft lb or what thanks for the help
 
I peg my boost guage at 60 with just ARP studs. 183K on the ticker and stock head gasket.
 
see i dont have studs all stock head and the guy i bought my injectors from said he was pushing 60 and never had trouble so i was just wondering what are yours torqued to?
 
It has more to do with having a larger, laggier turbo that raises the rpm at which the motor makes peak torque.
 
so what should i do to make the stock head the way it is last as long as possible right now i am pushing 46 psi on stock turbo but i just got some 250 sticks and an h2e retorque or what?
 
Keep your drive pressure down. I ran 50 psi on the stock hy-35, and now run 52 on an s300. I'll be oringing and studding the head this winter thought..
 
drive press hurts the head gasket more than boost ive been running my sps 62 with the 14 cm housing for 2 years and i can bury a 60 lb guage. my head gasket is stock and never been retorqued.
 
A lot of what you need to factor in is, how true your surfaces are. If you can surface both the head and block, put in studs, you wont have a issue blowing a hg
 
Thats true up to a certain point. Seems to be around 700hp and up the common rails with studs and an mls are failing. Or 500hp and 100% meth..and higher timing..and stock turbo..but thats another story..lol
 
Well you install 625 customs and the mls will hold to way higher, also depending who and how they were torqued. Torque the 625 to 165 and again after letting them set for a day and i guarantee they will hold a 100Psi of boost, with good surfaces. Your cylinder pressures have a lot to do with this also.
 
Just depends where they will torque to yield at. Best way to do it is to set up a indicator on the top of the stud and torque it till you find the yield point, or when they start to strech, and go from there. That's where i found the yield point at(165ft lbs). When you torque a stud, you take all the stretch out of it so that when you through the boost to it that doesn't move.
 
Scheid has a fire ringed head gasket they sell for 24 valves. They seem to work pretty good.
 
07dodge said:
Just depends where they will torque to yield at. Best way to do it is to set up a indicator on the top of the stud and torque it till you find the yield point, or when they start to strech, and go from there. That's where i found the yield point at(165ft lbs). When you torque a stud, you take all the stretch out of it so that when you through the boost to it that doesn't move.
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Im havin trouble wraping my head around this can you explain more?
 
Bad-Duvall said:
Im havin trouble wraping my head around this can you explain more?
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the yeild is ahen the stud or bolt starts to stretch. the idea is to tighten it till it just starts to stretch. that will give you the most clamping force you can get out of the fastner.
 
stuckey_272002 said:
the yeild is ahen the stud or bolt starts to stretch. the idea is to tighten it till it just starts to stretch. that will give you the most clamping force you can get out of the fastner.
Click to expand...

Sorry need to be more specific. I know this. But how would you use a indacator to see this??
 
All of arp bolts have a small dimple in the end of them to use a stretch gauge, or in this case a indicator. Set up the indicator on the top of the stud and start torquing.
 
Ok i will just have to take your word for it. I will take a look at some tonight and see if i can get what you are saying.
 
Put the dial indicator in a holder and position it above the stud. Then you tighten the nut with a box-end wrench and watch the stud stretch.



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