Headgasket help

02Harl02

02Harl02

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Dec 15, 2013
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Okay guys this is the 2nd time my truck has blown a headgasket in some way. But all its going is spitting some of the gasket out of the front or side of head and it just leaks oil. The first time I had to have it towed home because it leaked so bad. But this time I saw some oil running do the side of block and saw the gasket doing the same thing.. Just has not blowed all the way yet. Ive had the head decked when I rebuilt the engine so I know its all good. Head is 0-ringed, studded and I push around 50psi. Has anyone had this issue? Only way I know its messed up is from it puking oil everywhere. Also how're you guys torqueing your heads?
 
Pull it apart and put .10 over gasket on it and put it back together. Head gets torqued in sequence. 5 million threads on this on here. Just read away.
 
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Are you positive that is where it's leaking from? Throw some flour on it and run it to be positive. What side is it leaking from?
 
first time it blew it was in center front of head, now its the front left of head looking at it. Im just following arps and doing 125.. But ive been looking around and seen a few post about its blowing around some high pressure oil spot? and that I should be torqueing them to 150 to help crush the ring.
 
how many times did you retorque? i am running stock bolts with o-rings with out issue. what was the block surface like? did you measure the flatness?
 
I always do 3 then drive it for few hundred miles and do it again. And no because the only reason I went through the motor the first time was to fix all the leaks and I had the head rebuilt. But I'm going to check the block surface an see if anything has changed. It was fine when it was a stock motor so I really don't think it would be a warpage or anything
 
Have you put a feeler gauge on the block? How many heat cycles in between each retorque?
 
What is the protrusion on the O-rings if it is to tall the gasket will not seal no matter how much you torque the head bolts too
 
Pretty much cold. I would go out the next day or whenever I had time to mess with it again. Do you all tq yours to 125 or do you go a little more? The first time it started puking oil it was just a standard thickness gasket but with the cam I had some valve to piston contact so I had the head checked out and we just put a .20 over gasket on it
 
It's crazy how many different ways people torque head bolts/studs. I went to 135 ft lbs cold with new head bolts and it's held 50+psi for a few years now.
 
Do you think the arps will hold 150? I'll post a pic up of the first gasket
 
02Harl02 said:
Do you think the arps will hold 150? I'll post a pic up of the first gasket
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I had a similar problem when I cheaped out and tried a different moly lube on the studs. Use ARP lube! And yes, you can go 150 lbs. as long as you come up to it slowly.
 
Take it nice and easy. Arp lube is the best stuff by far, get some from amazon.
 
so you didn't or haven't checked the deck surface for flatness? thats a no-no. there is no reason to over torque the studs. they have a spec for a reason.
 
I have had my studs in for years and torqued to ARP specs and had one snap it was on the exhaust side. worst thing was it put a dent in my hood. ARP gave me a deal on upgrade to 625s and said they have only see them break when people over torque them. I would check the block and o ring protrusion.
 
jlbayes said:
so you didn't or haven't checked the deck surface for flatness? thats a no-no. there is no reason to over torque the studs. they have a spec for a reason.
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Well I didn't really see a reason to since there was nothing wrong the first time.. Just had the head gone through cuz it was leaking oil in the exhaust ports. But I'm just learning as I go so I'm taking in all the info and stuff you guys throw out. Machine shop so the protrusion was fine. What can I use to check it myself?
 
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