Help me build my engine

morkable

morkable

Just Over Broke
Joined
Jan 30, 2008
Messages
5,956
I havent even made it home yet to tear apart the old one,, but I am already dreaming and planning my new engine... I have been getting all kinds of good advice already, and would like to hear what all you folks have to say..

I am hoping to be in the 900ish range on fuel, 1300 ish with squeeze. I only race this truck,, occasional street driving, but not enough to count..

I will be getting the head ported/polished. I will be O-ringing the block. I am not 100% sure on the turbos, but I am kinda thinking a gt4202 over a s510 or something as such.

I am probably going to have to get new injectors too,, as I am fairly sure that when I pull apart the engine my number 4 is going to be beat pretty hard.
I will run a cam from somebody,, not sure which yet, going to talk to the guys that make them and see what they all have to say.

What pistons, rods, crank mods etc would you recomend? Where would you get them from? Any other ideas?


Thanks

Kevin
 
Are you planning to cut the stock intake off and put on a fabricated intake so you can port and polish the intake side of the head?

Joe
 
I wasnt thinking about it. I have already found the HP,, more worried about durability than finding more HP (for now)
 
As far as rotating assembly, a stock crank polished and balanced should be enough, though I would go with some 24V rods and new pistons. Probably get them flycut after you decide which cam you want.
 
Would you get aftermarket 24 valve rods? As for the pistons, what is your reasoning for fly cut?
 
morkable said:
Would you get aftermarket 24 valve rods? As for the pistons, what is your reasoning for fly cut?
Click to expand...

Fly cut for valve clearance so you can run a larger cam that will flow more air. What happened to your engine, I must have missed the posts about it? VP rods are suposed to be stronger than the cracked cap rods that are in the common rail engines. From my understanding the VP rods are forged. I would get a good set of VP rods, have them shot peened and then have them cryoed. Get a new set of cummins pistons and rings, have them flycut if you want to run a cam that big. I would deff. get the pistons coated and balance the rotating assy with the factory crank. If you have the factory crank polished it should be fine. You could o with billit rods but I think they are $3500.00 + for a set.

Joe
 
morkable said:
I havent even made it home yet to tear apart the old one,, but I am already dreaming and planning my new engine... I have been getting all kinds of good advice already, and would like to hear what all you folks have to say..

I am hoping to be in the 900ish range on fuel, 1300 ish with squeeze. I only race this truck,, occasional street driving, but not enough to count..

I will be getting the head ported/polished. I will be O-ringing the block. I am not 100% sure on the turbos, but I am kinda thinking a gt4202 over a s510 or something as such.

I am probably going to have to get new injectors too,, as I am fairly sure that when I pull apart the engine my number 4 is going to be beat pretty hard.
I will run a cam from somebody,, not sure which yet, going to talk to the guys that make them and see what they all have to say.

What pistons, rods, crank mods etc would you recomend? Where would you get them from? Any other ideas?


Thanks

Kevin
Click to expand...

When you pull your engine apart, I'd be interested to see how the other rods faired....check protusion to see.

After bending a whole set of rods and throwing one out the side (pm rods), billet rods was the only way to go. I went with a set of Woodruff's, 12V usa's would have been next on my list.
Especially if you plan on running stock compression for much time above 1k.
It gives a cushion for tuning as well.

I'll bet your head and injector is fine, at least mine was, the top of pison was intact.
 
Yeah I am really curious as to how everything looks in there... I will start pulling the engine out this week coming up,,, a little bit at a time,, out of holidays now.. I will post pics when I get er out and head off.

Who all makes Billet rods? You went with Mahle pistons too didnt you? Where did you get them?
 
I haven't spoken to Eric at Mahle, but sounds like you can't get the steel pistons I used anymore, or at least until they do another run. I don't think the demand is there though, too costly for the average bomber.


Look at it this way, if your engine had billet rods in it, you'd still be ticking of 1/4's, I would have still been on my first build if I watched the heat pulling on stock pistons.

There's a few now I think, not sure if Cunningham is still making rods, but they were a bit cheaper.

There was a fellow on here making a H-beam rod for the cummins, that might have some history now. Think they are standing up in the dmax's.

Crower's making them too now I think.
 
Id get a set of crower rods even if i didnt do anything else internally. Seems to be a lot of rod bending going on. 12V and VP rods last in P-Pumped pullers because there turning at 5000 rpm and up out of the torque range, These CRs really put the strain on them from the lower rpm range torque. And really there only about 2200 USD, so for durabilitys sake its worth it.
 
JOESHTRDDSL said:
Fly cut for valve clearance so you can run a larger cam that will flow more air. What happened to your engine, I must have missed the posts about it? VP rods are suposed to be stronger than the cracked cap rods that are in the common rail engines. From my understanding the VP rods are forged. I would get a good set of VP rods, have them shot peened and then have them cryoed. Get a new set of cummins pistons and rings, have them flycut if you want to run a cam that big. I would deff. get the pistons coated and balance the rotating assy with the factory crank. If you have the factory crank polished it should be fine. You could o with billit rods but I think they are $3500.00 + for a set.

Joe
Click to expand...

What he said^^^ The flycuts, though not a necessity, really help you tune your cam. They let you get the valve overlap you may need to spool the charger that little bit extra. If you have the money I would get the billet rods that some guys mentioned, their good insurance so you don't lower your comression on the fly LOL
 
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