I have an early 2006 F250 6.0 Fx4 that had 82,000 miles on it when I bought it. It's got 124,000 on it now. For quite some time it's been missing alot, usually when you're at or above 1500 RPM. Going down the highway it sputters and misses pretty bad. Sometimes it runs like a champ, but 90 percent of the time it misses. I've had people tell me it's an injector issue. Here lately it's started a new issue. When I start it after it's been sitting for a long time it starts. Then, once you drive it for a little while and shut it off, it won't start back up unless you let it sit for 45 minutes or so. It'll just turn over until the batteries are drained. I had a few people tell me it's the fuel pump under the frame getting weak and failing to operate when it gets hot. Any ideas? Thanks. Larry
Help! Serious 6.0 problems
- Thread starter LDH
- Start date
12vriviera
That Guy with that car
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- Mar 31, 2009
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there is an o ring on the high pressure oil rail under the valve cover. there is links out there that discuss, just maybe not on here..
what happens is the o ring goes bad, starts leaking oil back into the valve cover, which makes you not be able to find the leak, causes a hard start and missing at higher rpm.
its easy enough to do,,,, just gotta find which side and go for it
what happens is the o ring goes bad, starts leaking oil back into the valve cover, which makes you not be able to find the leak, causes a hard start and missing at higher rpm.
its easy enough to do,,,, just gotta find which side and go for it
The check engine light comes on then goes off. Sometimes it'll stay on for a day, sometimes only 4 or 5 hours. Sometimes it'll run bad with no engine light on at all. Then, a day or so later it'll come on again. I haven't had it scanned yet. Money is really tight right now (just went through a job change). I didn't know if there was something I could do myself to fix this or not. I cleaned my EGR valve earlier today and sensor that sticks out of the passenger side valve cover. I put it back together, ran it a little while around the block, then parked it. It sat for 2 or 3 hours and now it won't start at all. Should I start tearing it down or just wait and take it to the shop?
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Take it to Autozone or someone that will scan it for free. You won't know where to start; if you don't know what the computer is saying is wrong.
There are quite a few possibilities and the shotgun approach is very expensive unless you get lucky.
There are quite a few possibilities and the shotgun approach is very expensive unless you get lucky.
Extended Power
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Trust me....you can fix damn near ANYTHING on these 6.0L's.$.02
The "Stealership" is the LAST place you wanna take your truck...unless there is no other option for you.:badidea:
Just hearing what you describe, sounds like an oil pressure problem. Cold oil is thicker, and makes more pressure then hot oil, hense the easy first start...then on your restart, it's too thin for the HPOP to make the 500PSI for the injectors to fire.
It could also be either the ICP (Injection Control Pressure) sensor, or the IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator) sensor. Both are very easy to change, kinda pricey, so like mentioned above by others, try to get it scanned, that way you fix the right item/problem, the first time.:Cheer:
At least your engine light comes on.....I would hate to see what has to happen to my engine for it to come on. (Besides cycling the ignition key.)
The "Stealership" is the LAST place you wanna take your truck...unless there is no other option for you.:badidea:
Just hearing what you describe, sounds like an oil pressure problem. Cold oil is thicker, and makes more pressure then hot oil, hense the easy first start...then on your restart, it's too thin for the HPOP to make the 500PSI for the injectors to fire.
It could also be either the ICP (Injection Control Pressure) sensor, or the IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator) sensor. Both are very easy to change, kinda pricey, so like mentioned above by others, try to get it scanned, that way you fix the right item/problem, the first time.:Cheer:
At least your engine light comes on.....I would hate to see what has to happen to my engine for it to come on. (Besides cycling the ignition key.)
irontx25
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I believe it. 3 of em in a year and a half.
I would clean the valley out best you can, check it before and after driving to possibly find your oil leak. Had to put some o-rings on my turbo drain tube cause it was leaking. Your HPOP is right there too. Dont remember mine ever leaking, there is an o-ring in the cover though.
Tear down pictures
Well I tore down the passenger side this weekend. I started out by disconnecting both batteries and removing the passenger one for some more room. Then I took the connectors off the glow plug module and wired the up towards the center of the engine with baling wire to the hood to get them out of the way. I removed the glow plug module bracket, oil fill tube, and then the inner fender apron. This made reaching the back valve cover bolts with a 12mm end wrench a breeze. After taking the valve cover off I got after the T30 bolts that hold the high pressure oil rail on. Most of them were easy, but the 2 bottom ones at the back were a pain in the butt. There's not enough room to get a socket and ratchet in there, so I ended up using a T30 screwdriver bit. I placed it in the head of the bolt, then turned it with the closed end of a 1/4" end wrench. I had to put a cheater on the wrench since it was so short, but after they broke loose I was able to turn it out with my fingers. In order to pull the high pressure oil rail I removed the back plug that holds the stand pipe in place. The stand pipe tried to come out with it, but since the evaporator box doesn't allow you enough room to pull it out as a complete assembly, I had to pull the plug out a little bit, then take it loose from the stand pipe. It was a tight fit in there, but I CAREFULLY slipped a small flat screwdriver in the crack and turned it sideways to get the plug to come loose from the standpipe. Next I pulled to oil rail off and then pulled the standpipe out. With the parts on a towel, I removed the plugs in the oil rail and inspected the O rings. Sure enough, the bottom O ring on my dummy plug was marred pretty bad in one spot. Here's some pictures of the job. Notice how I have labeled cups with the bolts in order to keep things organized for when I put it back together. I have to wait until Monday to order my O ring. Would now be a good time to replace all of the O rings on this side, or do you think I should leave them alone if they're in good shape?
Well I tore down the passenger side this weekend. I started out by disconnecting both batteries and removing the passenger one for some more room. Then I took the connectors off the glow plug module and wired the up towards the center of the engine with baling wire to the hood to get them out of the way. I removed the glow plug module bracket, oil fill tube, and then the inner fender apron. This made reaching the back valve cover bolts with a 12mm end wrench a breeze. After taking the valve cover off I got after the T30 bolts that hold the high pressure oil rail on. Most of them were easy, but the 2 bottom ones at the back were a pain in the butt. There's not enough room to get a socket and ratchet in there, so I ended up using a T30 screwdriver bit. I placed it in the head of the bolt, then turned it with the closed end of a 1/4" end wrench. I had to put a cheater on the wrench since it was so short, but after they broke loose I was able to turn it out with my fingers. In order to pull the high pressure oil rail I removed the back plug that holds the stand pipe in place. The stand pipe tried to come out with it, but since the evaporator box doesn't allow you enough room to pull it out as a complete assembly, I had to pull the plug out a little bit, then take it loose from the stand pipe. It was a tight fit in there, but I CAREFULLY slipped a small flat screwdriver in the crack and turned it sideways to get the plug to come loose from the standpipe. Next I pulled to oil rail off and then pulled the standpipe out. With the parts on a towel, I removed the plugs in the oil rail and inspected the O rings. Sure enough, the bottom O ring on my dummy plug was marred pretty bad in one spot. Here's some pictures of the job. Notice how I have labeled cups with the bolts in order to keep things organized for when I put it back together. I have to wait until Monday to order my O ring. Would now be a good time to replace all of the O rings on this side, or do you think I should leave them alone if they're in good shape?
Attachments
I don't think I'm going to do anything with the injectors at this time. I was just planning on replacing the O rings on the high pressure oil rail. 2 on the front dummy plug, 1 on the stand pipe, 3 on the plug that holds the stand pipe in place. Do you know what these O rings will cost? I'm guessing I have to buy them individually. If anyone has any suggestions on what I'm doing, I am all ears. Should I pull each injector on this side and replace just the O rings on them? I'm not planning on replacing any injectors at this time, due to the cost. The reason I tore down this side was to deal with my no-start while hot issue. Would replacing the injector O rings benefit me?