help! with engine overhaul and transmission

2fstcummins

2fstcummins

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Aug 18, 2009
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Hey yall, it's been a while since I’ve posted on here, but I just blew my engine....
Now I’m starting the journey of overhauling it ha; the only problem is that I don’t really have a foot to step on here. Can yall help me out with any info in regards to my following questions... Thank you. .... 1996 2wd cummins, auto.

1. Is there a certain kit that is standard or is it all self preference? Also I want this engine to be able to handle 800hp DD. So any info..?

2. How difficult is it? (to rebuild the engine?) can I do it in my garage?


3. what tools will I need to do the engine work? Any special tools?

4. also I will be installing the new tranny while the engine is out, do I need any special equipment or tools thank you..

… how much am I looking for the engine rebuild, I want studs, o-ringed, and springs. Thank you all.
Any tips will be appreciated.
 
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you can do it if you have the knowledge or a good manual. Its not hard but thats comin from a guy thats rebuilt a lot of different motors oddly enough i never rebuilt a cummins. i would strip the block down measure the clearences and go from there. but how did you blow it? hole in the block? or just bursted headgasket? if you windowed your block your gonna have to get a new one. if you justblew a gasket or threw the gear off the cam or somthin like that it will be nothin. But you do need to tear it down first to see if its rebuildable or not.

1. id get a kit from mamu diesel, for 800 go with oring head and arp625 studs for the head and a girtle and studs for the mains.

2. easy.

3. calipers, piston ring compressor, feeler guages, dial indicator and plastiguage.

4. no but would recomend a tranny jack.

if your engine is rebuildable your prolly lookin at 500 for the head oring and valve job., springs are prolly round 275 for the good stuff., rebuild kit around 1000, machine work around 400 or 500 for the block and balancing work, studs are about 800 or 900.

2.
 
or you could go the redneck way if its rebuildable, measure all your old bearings, compression test and just put it back how it was just replacing the "blown parts" and add the studs and oring and get away for less than 1500.
 
Get a service manual that goes into full detail on the overhaul, it helped me out wonders.
 
thank you that's exactly what I'm looking for answer wise.
I have no intentions of doing it "redneck" style haha thank you for the knoledge though.
will that set-up that was described above hold up with 800hp?
if i will be running at high boost psi; (75-85psi) should i bring the presure ratio down? if so how would i do that by installing a cam and differrent pistions, or/and??
thanks again guys.
 
I think letting us know what happened to your engine would benefit you, and us in reguards of being able to give you better information?

As stated talk to Jeff @ Mumau he'll get you set up.

No intentions on doing it "redneck" style? I think he ment that if you burnt a hole in the piston, or what ever might have caused your engine to fail that a complete o/h is not required. I measured my bearing tolerances @ #220,XXX miles and all bearings where with-in tolerance.. If it aint broke, dont fix it..
But I would add a cam on your list, one of the most (if not the #1) wear item on these engines, cam lobes.
 
thank you, my throttle response started becoming less and less powerful so i checked the oil and it was pushing smoke out of the dip stick, so I'm pretty sure i have blow-by going on in there, so i might as well take this time to over-haul it, as i was in the process of building twins for it, but there going to have to be put on hold.
 
The first thing you need to do is take a few days or a week or two on here and do a search on eveything you plan on doing to the engine. There is alot of useful info on here that will help you out on picking a good combo. You can really see what works and what doesn't.

One other thing I would do is get the bottom end balanced and add a fluidampr or ATI balancer. If you have excessive blow by, then probably the piston rings are shot. If thats the case the cylinder walls might possibly be scored. I would have the block bored and order pistons to match how ever much you have to bore it to clean them up. For one that is going to be a daily driver, stay with the cast pistons. Forged pistons will not last very long on the street unless you spend alot of money to moddify a few things on them.

Also for you HP goals and some added insurance, the 625 head studs will work fine with the O-ringed head. i would also up for some 625 main studs aswell. Although the block may have to be lined honed. I have seen a few cases where main studs will actually "straighten up" the main caps to the block, but that will throw the line bore specs out.

A cam would also bennefit your HP goals aswell. Hamilton cams seems to be the place to go for that. They can set you up with one of there off the shelf cams or a custom grind. I would even go with some CR tappets. They have a larger face diameter than the 12 and vp24 tappets.
 
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