Help with turbo selection LB7

lcaad1249

lcaad1249

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Jun 6, 2007
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I'm trying to help a friend with turbo selection. He's got a 2003 LB7 Duramax and is wanting to hit 650-700 HP. His current mods are an ATS transmission, tie rod sleeves, and centerlink. He's putting EFI live on this winter. What is he gonna need? Aurora 5000??
 
Well if he's shooting for 650-700 horse here's a list to start with conn rods, pistons, heads, head studs, turbo, injectors, lift pump, maybe twin cp3's or modded cp'3 and thats just a start to hold 700 hp. to hold 700hp reliably is going to cost 20 grand or better from the build ups ive seen and read about. Now there's another way but I WOULDN'T suggest it but he can do it tune it with EFI Live and a lot of laughing gas and you can get there quick but it will be short lived.

ON EDIT: the turbo I would suggest would be a ATS Aurora 5000. Look at Micheal Tomac for instance he's making 750 hp 1300ft lb of torque. He has well over 20 grand in the engine to hold it together and real precise tuning from kennedy diesel to take advantage of mods.
 
650-700 can be done with rods, de-lipped pistons, headstuds.
40 % injectors/modded cp3 and a 2.8 charger.
 
forget the A5K.... a nice S475 will suit your friend very nice, i wouldn't build an engine before he has too...
 
I would check with Danville Performance turbos they are badassss.
 
I wouldn't worry about rods and pistons tell it is time... There are quite a few LB7's runnin around (or were runnin around) that made that kinda power for a long time. Also gonna go with paint on the S475
 
I forgot studs. He plans on doing those too.

he was under the same way of thinking about not going internal but being ready to if or when necesary.
 
GRotman said:
Does he have a spare block for when the stock rods go through it?
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Doesn't everybody have one laying around.

Have you ever heard the phrase "you can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink"? I was understanding that going internal to the motor was necesary to make higher power which I told him. He called ATS who recomended the opposite. So I'm just listening as I understand my lack of Duramax knowledge.
 
You could give us a call. We have some chargers that work a little better than a 475 for a single.
 
lcaad1249 said:
Doesn't everybody have one laying around.

Have you ever heard the phrase "you can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink"? I was understanding that going internal to the motor was necesary to make higher power which I told him. He called ATS who recomended the opposite. So I'm just listening as I understand my lack of Duramax knowledge.
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I would only take what ATS says with a grain of salt as to what parts are recommended...

GRotman said:
Does he have a spare block for when the stock rods go through it?
Click to expand...

go through the block>? our rods shorten/bend there is a LONG warning before anything bad happens... Im around 675hp, at about 60 1/4 passes and knock on wood everything in my engine is still intact.
 
What does he plan to do with 650-700 hp? Everyone knows the Dmax situation. My build has been slow and calculated over time. Will he use this truck for competition, or horse around dailey with the power turned up? Just remember, its not just the turbo, or the cp3, its a combination. I believe that much of the Dmax carnage is due to not having a sensible plan.
 
I don't think it is fair to the original poster to say it is safe to take a stock short block to 700hp. When the rod bends the piston hits the counterweight and breaks the piston. Then with no piston on the rod, the rod is free to swing around and make friends with all the other parts inside, until it decides to leave.
Unless you plan on splitting the cost of his rebuild, I cannot see recommending the OP to worry about it when it breaks.
 
GRotman said:
I don't think it is fair to the original poster to say it is safe to take a stock short block to 700hp. When the rod bends the piston hits the counterweight and breaks the piston. Then with no piston on the rod, the rod is free to swing around and make friends with all the other parts inside, until it decides to leave.
Unless you plan on splitting the cost of his rebuild, I cannot see recommending the OP to worry about it when it breaks.
Click to expand...

Wo there, I never said it was safe to take his motor. (I know common rail Dodge's not Duramax's, that's why I ask questions). I said I was under the impression that internal motor work needed to be done for hitting this power level. ATS and others have told him its not necesary.
 
Sorry my post was aimed at the others in this thread giving illogical advice.
 
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