HMR Street Drag Clutch Issues

lbdodge24v

lbdodge24v

New member
Joined
Jun 23, 2008
Messages
153
I am having problems with the clutch disengaging still. Tried new hydrualics and that did nothing but spend money. So here is where we think we are. I put new clutch disc in while the trans was out incase anything was wrong with them from the input shaft breaking. I ordered them and they are suppose to be a direct replacement, but we are thinking they are thicker, making the fingers on the pressure plate pushed farther in. I measured the movement of the throw out bearing fork and pulled all the way back it is 3/8 to 1/2in, pushed all the way in it is 2 1/8 in. to the fork from the back of the slave cylinder hole. The rod on the slave cylinder is about 2 in long fully extended. If looking in from the bottom of the trans the pressure plate moves some, but not much. What are your thoughts or ideas on this one

I am running a HMR Street Drag clutch, this one STREET DRAG, TWIN DISC CLUTCH, McLEOD, HMR, CUMMINS, FORD Haisley Machine.

I won't call any names on this,but I have tried for over a week to find out some info on the phone with the place I bought the clutch from (not hard to figure that place out) and every time I call get told I will be called back, and have heard nothing back for over a week. Tired of waiting and calling for no reason. I seem to be wasting time using the phone and I need the truck back up and going instead of sitting in the corner. Really tired of calling with no results. I hate to post something bad about a company but*bdh*.

Sorry for such a long post but I need some help on this or what to try next.

Thanks for any and all help.
 
Did you remove the washer from behind the pivot ball? Also when you installed the new disc did you check the clearance with the 1/8" key stock to see if it needed more shims
 
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DISTURBED said:
Did you remove the washer from behind the pivot ball? Also when you installed the new disc did you check the clearance with the 1/8" key stock to see if it needed more shims
Click to expand...

Could you explain more on how to check the clearance with the 1/8" key stock? We are thinking it needs more shims, but weren't sure how to check that. Thanks.
 
ETH/DEE said:
Care to elaborate?
Click to expand...


Well, not really sure what is going on. Put both new clutch disc in, new hydrualics, and the clutch stays locked all the time. There is no pressure on the pedal. Also when looking up into the bellhousing through the slot in bottom, the pressure plate moves a lil bit, but not enough to disengage. Trying to figure out if there is a problem with the shimming of the clutch, or the pressure plate ( pieces of input shaft going through it when it broke).
 
lbdodge24v said:
Could you explain more on how to check the clearance with the 1/8" key stock? We are thinking it needs more shims, but weren't sure how to check that. Thanks.
Click to expand...

With the clutch fully assembled laying on a table. set the pressure plate on the studs and measure fromthe bottom of the pressure plate to the top of the shims. You need to use a piece of 1/8" key stock. You may need to remove shims in the case of it not disengaging when you apply pedal. Also are you sure you put the disc in right and dont have one backwards
 
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Put both stickers that said flywheel towards the flywheel.

Didn't know about the measuring, how do I figure out how to shim the floater plate? This or would it shim the same as the pressure plate?
 
DISTURBED said:
With the clutch fully assembled laying on a table. set the pressure plate on the studs and measure fromthe bottom of the pressure plate to the top of the shims. You need to use a piece of 1/8" key stock. You may need to remove shims in the case of it not disengaging when you apply pedal. Also are you sure you put the disc in right and dont have one backwards
Click to expand...

This is going to sound like a dumb question, but once I make the measurement from the bottom of the pressure plate to the top of the shims, what will this tell me? Or what do I use this measurement for? Like I said may be a dumb question, or maybe it is just late for me!:Cheer:
 
The measurement needs to be 1/8" hence the key stock. if its closer then you need to remove shims if it greater then you need to add shims. floater doesnt get shimmed thats why its on the flexible thin arms
 
Thanks Disturbed. Maybe I will get to drive it again the right way. Trucks been down for over a month now. Hopefully it rolls out the shop tomorrow without cranking in first.
 
Good luck! Just FYI any time you take it out you should always check it. Just to keep it in its optimal range. Oh and check all 6 stands with the keystock to make sure they are all even
 
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Would measuring like this work on a dual disc or a single? Just curious on that also now.
 
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