how long do i have to baby my truck

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fluty118

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Sep 10, 2008
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i just installed freshly ported and polished fire ringed head with larger exhaust valves 12mm studs, street puller cam new 66mm charger, 5x.014 injectors,and new clutch. hope to fire her up tonight im going to drive it down the street get it hot with building as little boost as possible then let sit over night and do a retorque. i really want to see what these new improvements gave me but i dont want to rush it, so how many more retorques and when to do them before really gettin into it. what do you guys think
 
When I did my trucks head, I did 3 retorques.

I did the initial on, then I srated the truck, got it up to temp, shut her down and let it sit till the following morning. I then did a retorque.

I then drove the truck for a week without trying to do build much boost (10psi or less). I then did another retorque.

The last retorque I drove the truck for about 1000 miles doing at the most 25-30psi of boost. I let it sit overnight and did another retorque.

I then try to do 1 retorque per year.

All retorques should be done COLD.

As far as the cam goes, follow the cam builders instructions.
 
i did about the same thing[kept it under 20 lbs].but checked the valve lash after last retorque.
 
personally I would start it, check for any issues then get it to 1800rpm or so and leave it there for 20 min. to make sure the crank throws lots of oil on the cam for a break in. Then I would start the retorque process.
 
just curious as to why you would do a retorque while hot because every thing would be expanded when hot
 
When Gilmore Diesel performance rebuilt my motor I went about 500 miles then changed the oil retorqued everything down ran it kinda hard for the next 2-3,000 miles changed the oil retorqued the head then started hooking to the sled and been fine since. No retorques since just oil changes and been going for another 40,000 miles and over 50 hooks.
 
A1's instructions tell you to retorque hot in their H-11 instructions.
 
I thought you torqued them down cold, start engine and bring to operating temps, shut truck off and retorque. Drive 500 miles do another retorque. Not sure if this is supposed to be done hot or cold. We did it hot and not to jinx it but haven't had any issues.
 
IMHO, it is a good idea to retorque while hot, the studs are what i like to call "relaxed", they are not streched, but metal expands when it is hot, if you torque the stud while it is hot, it is going to be longer, when everything cools down, the studs are going to have more clamp pressure on the head, and therefore more clamp pressure on the head gasket, and orings or fire rings. i have had the chance to try the cold retorque method, and the hot retorque method, and i was able to get the gasket to settle more with the hot retorque method. i know the gasket was still settling due to the fact that the valve lash changed everytime i did a retorque. i did not see the gasket settling as much with the cold retorque. hope this helps!

Wes
 
IMO the head will expand more when hot than the stud will, its just a much much larger amount of mass.

FWIW I do retorques cold, and doing it that way I had no issues with my firerings at all.

I would start the truck after double checking everything to be buttoned up correctly and idle it to 1300-1500rpm until the engine coolant is almost to full operating temperature. Then let it idle a few minutes, then kill it. Come back the next morning and do a retorque. Then drive easy for about a week and retorque again while the engine is stone cold. Then you are good to go!
 
wdimig said:
IMHO, it is a good idea to retorque while hot, the studs are what i like to call "relaxed", they are not streched, but metal expands when it is hot, if you torque the stud while it is hot, it is going to be longer, when everything cools down, the studs are going to have more clamp pressure on the head, and therefore more clamp pressure on the head gasket, and orings or fire rings. i have had the chance to try the cold retorque method, and the hot retorque method, and i was able to get the gasket to settle more with the hot retorque method. i know the gasket was still settling due to the fact that the valve lash changed everytime i did a retorque. i did not see the gasket settling as much with the cold retorque. hope this helps!

Wes
Click to expand...

so why not just... uh... give it more torque cold? :confused:
 
thanks for all your replys. but new found problem my number 3 injector is leaking all the time. so im going to take all 6 back to columbus diesel and have the one laped and the pop offs raised on all the others not to big of a deal.the problem is that i noticed where the fuel was running onto the head gasket these little tiny bubbles where coming out of the gasket where the black material meets the metal the bubbles are smaller than 1/8 of an inch for sure. i have not lost any coolant bottle and radiator seem to be as full as they were but woundering what this could be from. i have heard that scheid runs a block sealer through there engines that they do fire rings on do you think it would be a bad idea to do
 
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