Input needed on engine build

Silverstreak02

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Jun 30, 2014
Messages
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Hey guys, I cracked a piston in my 06 Dodge, so I'd like a little input on my plan for it, all opinions and advice will be taken into consideration as long as there within reason lol. My overall goal is to have a reliable truck that's in the 800-850 hp range. It's just gonna be a hot street truck that'll be ran on the track occasionally, and maybe tow a light load every now and then.

For starters it's got around 193k miles, currently running a 2nd gen swap with a box s366 for air, and a fresh cp3 with an arson 3 kit, ii 100s and a fass 150 for fuel, with efi live for tuning, and arp 2000 head studs, a silverline 4" exhaust and autometer boost/pyro/trans temp gauges, and a built auto to put it to the ground

For starters the number one piston is cracked, I'm not really sure of the cause. I did a wot run in a straight stretch by my house and took it up past the point where it quit fueling before I shifted into o/d and when I let out it was missing and white smoking and carrying on, anyways now to the nitty gritty.

-Obviously replace the piston. The wall has a scratch in it, barely enough to hang a thumb nail in so I hope honing it will clear it back up
-Cummins rings, bearings, seals, gaskets, etc etc. Basically refresh everything interally
-Port and polish the head as much as possible while leaving the stock intake in place
-Cam, Hamilton 182/214 or 188/220 is what I've got in mind
-Hamilton 103 springs and extreme duty pushrods
-ATS dual fuelers, with a fleece cp3k or something similar as the top pump
-Send the injectors out to S&S diesel to have them checked, balanced and opened up to 100-150% over
-S467.7/87/1.0 for air
-Give the autometers to my dad, and put isspro ev2 boost, pyro, trans temp, rp, fp, op gauges in their place
-Stainless diesel coolant bypass, block the rear freeze plug off and put pipe plugs in the head under the valve cover

Then all the odds and ends to tie everything together. Sorry for the lengthy post, I'm sure there's still things I've left out.

Thanks in advance!
 
Sounds like you have the same power goal as I had.

Early '07 5.9 bored .0020 over with stock Cummins pistons, cam, and push tubes. Peened 12v rods, (couldn't afford billit at the time :bang ) Spun balanced to 5k, machine work and assembley by Drew at D&J Precision Machine.
115# springs
Dual stock cp3's
Exergy 100% overs
Air Dog 100gph lift pump
Billet s468/87/1.0 from E.D.
Stainless Diesel non-gated t4 2nd gen manifold
Fleece coolant by-pass
Firepunk comp 2 48re
Single efi tune from Lavon at Firepunk

Very, very streetable, low smoke daily driver. Current power level is 849.1hp/1453tq running a best 1/4 mile pass of 11.31 @119.9mph on 35x12.50 mud tires.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYBFOfstKUw"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYBFOfstKUw[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgAPp58SXZ4"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgAPp58SXZ4[/ame]

:Cheer:
 
Sweet! That's exactly what I'm after. Do you think billet rods would be necessary at that power level? Or could I get by with 12v rods? I feel like they'd be fine especially with the head being ported and not running a compound turbo set up. I can't really swing billet rods at the moment myself
 
That would be something to discuss with whoever is doing your build. I can tell you that I've put close to 25k miles on this engine with no issue's.
 
That's good news, I'd say I'll more than likely add 12v rods to the list but I'll consult with the guys doing the work on my engine
 
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