intake manifold

bprumos

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Feb 4, 2009
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im in the process of building my 12 valve up and i know that these head are quite inneficient compared to the newer engines in part because of the intake manifold. i know ive seen on competition trucks and such that they machine off the intake manifold and make their own that bolts on, the ones ive seen look like velocity stacks all connected at the top kinda.

i was wondering if this is really that difficult, i have access to a machine shop and it seems quite doable, so if anyone could guide me with basic instructions like how to cut of the old manifold and where to drill and tape bolt holes i would really apriciate it!

ive searched around and couldnt find anything on this topic
 
theres plenty to read on it.

if you download the banks manual they have a layout for the bolt pattern. I like the looks of theirs, but they want it milled at 5* off square for some reason.
 
ill check out the banks deal, thank you. do you happen to know of a specific thread i can read up for this? i appriciate it
 
i got the gist on how to machine the head thanks to zz's website but i cant find the bolt pattern on there? also what does everyone use for a gasket on these, just silicone or is there something else you guys use to hold high boost pressures?
 
thats actually a pretty good idea i never thought of that. im sure it would work but where do you get a sheet of copper like that?
 
i think aluminum is the better at dissapating heat better than copper. not to mention the weight of copper is alot more than aluminum.
 
i think aluminum is the better at dissapating heat better than copper. not to mention the weight of copper is alot more than aluminum.

you realize we are talking about using copper as a GASKET?

aluminum would make a pretty poor gasket, just like stainless does on exhaust parts.
 
oh boy, my bad :nail: just send me out to the pasture and put the shotgun barrel in my mouth like the cow from Napolean Dynamite
 
Every ZZ I've been around, including mine, is rtv'ed on. 70+psi on mine so far and another split at the weld and silicone is fine.
 
well, i guess it is good to know that rtv will hold that, but

a) i HATE the mess that rtv makes, no matter how clean you do it, its still a mess to take apart

b) i still wouldnt trust it to hold boost. even a pin hole is lost power. a copper gasket will be 100% from the day you install it until probably longer than the motor will run, rtv will not.
 
i do like the idea of copper over rtv cause i too hate but i figure its prolly a pain to cut a piece out that will work.

i still gotta try and get a hold of the bolt pattern and some other stuff like what size bolts should i use. so if anyone knows somewhere i can obtain this
 
i do like the idea of copper over rtv cause i too hate but i figure its prolly a pain to cut a piece out that will work.

i still gotta try and get a hold of the bolt pattern and some other stuff like what size bolts should i use. so if anyone knows somewhere i can obtain this

1/4" ARP bolts are what are used on my intake.
 
John deere makes some white sealant better than any sillicone or sealer. Its used on new skidsteer engines. Kinda like glue,however ur machinein the head and the intake is machined so I wouldn't have a problem, loctite 515 is made for 2 machined surfaces and works great
 
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