manual boost controllers

morkable

Just Over Broke
Joined
Jan 30, 2008
Messages
5,956
I did a search, but wasnt able to really find what I am looking for.. I want to put 2 manual boost controllers on my truck. What kinds do you all recomend? I am being gently pushed towards the kinds that have the ball and spring over the bleed valves. What say ye? Also where is a good place to buy them? Been looking around on ebay a bit

Thanks

Merry Christmas

Kevin
 
i got mine from pius at bell turbo. give him a call, i'm sure he'll have what you need. ed
 
with this you could make your own probably cheaper than any you can buy.


How to make a Manual Boost Controller....that works. - DSM Forums

I've made a few like that, but most of the ones I've done were based on grainger's part #5z763. Last I checked, they were ~$8.

I've got a bleed style design based on that on my truck right now. Wouldn't mind getting another to modify as a true ball and seat design for it.

All the ones for sale are WAY overpriced IMHO.
 
i knew that, i guess i should rephrase, what are you trying to improve? drive pressure? EGT? distance?(sled pull) time?(drag race)
 
Well,, you want to control boost pressure for a lot of reasons. You dont want to overspin the turbos when spraying, you dont want to overboost the engine. You want to control drive pressure.
 
I want to try one of these to control the boost signal to my AFC. They aren't cheap though...$180!
 
That is cool looking,, but woah,, that would be 360 for me (2 wastegates)
 
And you're plumbing this into the wastegate? how is that home-made deal going to dump pressure off of the actuator side once boost overcomes the check valve?
 
And you're plumbing this into the wastegate? how is that home-made deal going to dump pressure off of the actuator side once boost overcomes the check valve?

An orfice vented to atmosphere is the most common route.
 
my brother has a 6 dollar ebay controller that hold 25 psi... ball and spring type. does not fluctuate or spike... if you want to go higher in boost you can drill small holes in actuator housing to bleed off pressure to get your controller more in the range you need.
 
we use a small air regulator mounted in the cab which allows in cab/live boost changes while driving

I think I paid like $20 for the regulator and another $15 for lines and fittings (we used 1/4 efi plastic fuel line for the flexability and 150 psi test and the neat compression fittings) , however the infinite adjustability morre tham offsets the cost
 
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