Motor build plans

B

brianjbeach85

New member
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
207
Alright guys i got my 12v on a engine stand 96 with the 180hp p7100 .. current mods include:

ARP head studs (stock HG)
12- 60# valve springs
no fuel plate
AFC slide all way with wheel turned up
4k GSK
KDP
4inch DP to 5 in straight pipe
---------------

future plans are:

-191 DV's
-5x.014 injectors
-FASS 100gph
-twins (hx35/40 over ht3b)
-Stock airhorn?? should i upgrade this really worth it? and i need the heater grid due to cold climate... otherwise id delete this


big question here is does this list look solid? looking for 500-600hp range
SHOULD i o ring the head? advantages?
 
I would do everything except the DV's and see where its at first, I don't think you will need them for 500HP with twins. Advance the timing also...16-18 degrees or so.

Maybe I'm paranoid but I never run without a fuel plate.
 
really? heard plenty run without them.. i still have the plate so i could grind it to a #100 plate... thoughts?

Motor is out of the truck so.. kinda hard to test hp without it being setup to a dyno of some kind or transplate run.. then pull for further mods. looking for the 1 shot 1 kill with buildup here so i don't have to repull it.
 
if you run 191's w/ injectors and no fuel plate thats a good amount of fuel in just that. do you plan on streeting it?
 
brianjbeach85 said:
really? heard plenty run without them.. i still have the plate so i could grind it to a #100 plate... thoughts?

Motor is out of the truck so.. kinda hard to test hp without it being setup to a dyno of some kind or transplate run.. then pull for further mods. looking for the 1 shot 1 kill with buildup here so i don't have to repull it.
Click to expand...

If you run a 100 plate you will curve your fuel at bottom end which will help in lighting the twins from a start. I've heard of rack's sticking wide open without a plate to stop it, but its a big arguement. I'm bigger on safer than sorry so I run a 0 in my puller. If my 99 ever get's PPumped it will get my old 100 plate.

AFC/Fuel plate work is not hard to do at all with the motor in the truck so don't worry about that.

Put a plate in, the injectors do a search and tune the afc and you should be good to go, I really don't think you will need larger DV's. Save the money and spend it elsewhere.
 
This motor is going in my 2005 F250.. so it will be a daily driver. please don't let the fact that stop from the advice. i love the cummins motor.. just don't dig the whole dodge truck body/interior.
 
whats the deal with stock Air horn.. it any good or should i toss it out? 275-350 for a ATS/banks seems HIGH
 
brianjbeach85 said:
This motor is going in my 2005 F250.. so it will be a daily driver. please don't let the fact that stop from the advice. i love the cummins motor.. just don't dig the whole dodge truck body/interior.
Click to expand...

You will still easily be able to access the AFC housing in a Ford engine bay. I stand by everything I have said above.

brianjbeach85 said:
whats the deal with stock Air horn.. it any good or should i toss it out? 275-350 for a ATS/banks seems HIGH
Click to expand...

Does it work...yeah...most ideal...not really. 2 options I would consider. Buy a 180* 3" aluminized mandrel bent exhaust piece on ebay and build your own intake (which I'm going to do for my 99 soon). Or if you don't have access to the tools to do that (doubtful if your doing a CTD conversion) then the only manufactured intake I would spend my money on would be a http://www.PusherIntake.com one.

brianjbeach85 said:
What HP range does mech lift pump start to fail?
Click to expand...

I believe it starts falling off about 425-450...kind of hard to determine without a fuel pressure gauge.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top