My Rear Loop/Joint Shield (PICS)

97' CTD

97' CTD

FeFiFo-FoFeFeFi
Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
4,301
What do ya think? It is made out of well caseing and attached by 4 1/2" grade 8 bolts witch I tapped the caseing and ran the bolts TIGHT against the housing, I hit it with a mini-sledge and it stayed in place should work good for me?
Brandon

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Do your bolt need to be that long there buddy??

Would look good painted though;)


That's what I was planning for mine...other than I'm going to split it lengthwise, and add tabs to bolt it together so I can take it off easier!

Chris:hehe:
 
Id also weld a piece of 1x1 angle and go back to the diff and bolt it there kinda like this
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Signature600 said:
Do your bolt need to be that long there buddy??

Would look good painted though;)


That's what I was planning for mine...other than I'm going to split it lengthwise, and add tabs to bolt it together so I can take it off easier!

Chris:hehe:
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I'll make a deal you come down here paint it and buy me bolts and i'll do her like U want, but I have no black paint and these are the shortest 1/2 inchers I had. Also I need an ethier bunny so I can play more with my idle :shake:.
Brandon
 
Yeah Joe I want to fab it like that but I have no welder so I am kinda SOL but I like that idea!
Brandon
 
You need to move closer to me so you can bring that thing to the shop;)

40 miles isn't far...but with 4.63 gears I'll bet it seems like it:hehe::hehe:

Chris
 
Brandon I would run something on the top of the casing back to the top of the differential. The bolts will hold it tight, but as it moves a little it will start to wear the case and get looser. Most guys just drill two holes in the flat spot of the case web, and weld a piece of angle on the shield, and then bolt the angle to the case. Also a shield cut in half is very nice. That way you can just drop the bottom part of the shield to get the driveshaft out.
 
I would like to see front mount pics of your guys' sheilds, im needing to make a set up too.
 
partsguy662 said:
No welder?!?!
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How do you function?!?!
Click to expand...

I am glad U see a major problem with this situation :clap: I get most of my pieces mocked up then head a couple min. down the road and lay the spank to em' with my buddies dad's gas powered miller set-up ;), I look at it this way atleast when I get to burn some metal it is with a mac daddy set-up :), but as U said functioning properly is very difficult without this luxury :(.

RodRam2002 My front one is 6" and my rear one is 10".

Norris I plan to do the same set-up on the front.

Brandon
 
id like to see how it hooks up at the t case also, i kinda gota get this done ASAP!
 
Ran all last year pulling and daily driving with them, never had to tweak nor tighten anything...even been off road a little (no major flex) with them and they work well with the suspension.

Rear-

Front half- single flat bar between frame rails, loop up over the DS incase it breaks between the case and the bearing, it cant swing over and slice the fuel tank

Rear half-two "L" tabs welded or bolted to the carrier bearing support to hold the 1x1 tubing up, at the pumpkin, two angles bolted to the flanges welded to the section of pipe. 1x1 welded to the top of this pipe. the other u-joint shield and a single loop are both mounted off of this 1x1.

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Front- just pone angle bolted (2 bolts to prevent it front swinging over) to the side flange on the D60, welded to the piece of pipe
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Just a few quick things:

1. The 4 bolts threw the pipe into the rear housing will not hold if you break the rear. Trust me here I have been there.

2. If you use split pipe and have bolts holding it together many organizations will require 2 3/8 grade 8 bolts on each side.
 
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