Napa wheel bearings suck

waldershrek

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Jun 6, 2010
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Replaced the driver side wheel bearing assembly about 6 months ago. Got new tires and went for an alignment and the alignment guy says the bearing is bad already. Sure enough it is, loose already. It's been making a squeaking noise too. While I'm at the shop another guy was there getting something done to his truck, says he had the same problem with his Napa bearings, ended up going with a different brand. Both guys told me to stay away from Napa bearings. I could get it warrantied no problem but I don't wanna keep replacing bearings every six months. Is there another kind I should be looking at?
 
Me either. Didn't even get the lifetime moog or anything, just the cheapest one they had.
 
The reason I only buy oem parts for stuff like that...only buy Timken bearings


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The reason I only buy oem parts for stuff like that...only buy Timken bearings

I have been hearing good things about the Timken bearing too.

Proper torque on the nut is essential.

Yeah I torqued it to 180lbs when I installed it.



Well maybe I just got a bad one. I'll get this one warrantied and if it happens again I'll change it and never buy another napa bearing.
 
Proper torque on the nut is essential.

I bought my rear bearings from Inland Truck Parts in OKC, OK. Best price and good brands. Manual for the 01 (which I used on the 02) states

"(10) Tighten the adjustment nut to 163-190 N·m (120-140 ft. lbs.) while rotating the wheel.
(11) Loosen the adjustment nut 1/8 of-a-turn to
provide 0.001-inch to 0.010-inch wheel bearing end
play.."

Never had a problem after that. Make sure and properly lube the new bearings when installing.

Can you even spin the wheel when torqued to 180ft/lbs? That sounds way off to me. No wonder they are burin' up!?!?!?!? Did you miss read 180 N*M and put int in ft/lbs?

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I bought my rear bearings from Inland Truck Parts in OKC, OK. Best price and good brands. Manual for the 01 (which I used on the 02) states

"(10) Tighten the adjustment nut to 163-190 N·m (120-140 ft. lbs.) while rotating the wheel.
(11) Loosen the adjustment nut 1/8 of-a-turn to
provide 0.001-inch to 0.010-inch wheel bearing end
play.."

Never had a problem after that. Make sure and properly lube the new bearings when installing.

Can you even spin the wheel when torqued to 180ft/lbs? That sounds way off to me. No wonder they are burin' up!?!?!?!? Did you miss read 180 N*M and put int in ft/lbs?

attachment.php

I'm pretty sure this thread is about front wheel bearing units. Yes proper nut torque is critical.
 
I'm pretty sure this thread is about front wheel bearing units. Yes proper nut torque is critical.

Opps. I never read "front" and I guess I assumed "rear" since those are the ones I've actaully done.
 
Yes. I'm an ass. Tell me sumpin' most people around here don't already think. :hehe:
 
Stopped at Napa, they are gonna warranty it. New one should be here tomorrow. I guess I don't recall lubing it. If memory serves me there is no way to lube it is there? If this one doesn't hold up I'll go with Timken.
 
No Jory was talking about the rear wheel bearings. The front ones are sold as a whole hub assembly so they are just a bolt on item.
 
Well I went to tear into it today so I could take the hub back and discovered that the u joints on that side are shot. Just turning it by hand it bangs and squeaks so I'm thinking that's what the squeaking was and not the wheel bearing. Wheel bearing looks perfect actually. So I picked up a new u joint and I'm gonna get that put on tomorrow and see if that cures it. If not I'll replace the hub under warranty.
 
Well I went to tear into it today so I could take the hub back and discovered that the u joints on that side are shot. Just turning it by hand it bangs and squeaks so I'm thinking that's what the squeaking was and not the wheel bearing. Wheel bearing looks perfect actually. So I picked up a new u joint and I'm gonna get that put on tomorrow and see if that cures it. If not I'll replace the hub under warranty.

LOL, you apologize to napa!
 
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