need help!!!! truck won't start

skilletky

skilletky

i love lamp
Joined
Feb 24, 2009
Messages
342
Need some help quick! Truck is an 01, 2wd, 5 speed. Had an air dog 150, just put an almost new so vp on the truck 2 days ago. Truck truck ran awesome till last night. Was getting off the highway and truck died when I put the truck in neutral. Would not start back up. Had 15 psi of fuel pressure. Push started it and it would run fine under throttle but wouldn't idle only while moving. When I sat still, truck would ilde. Just had to keep it at 1000 rpm's until I came to a complete stop. This morning, I went to try and start it and just cranks. Getting plenty of inlet pressure. No fuel at injector lines. Removed the overflow valve and got no fuel. Is this vp junk?
 
put an almost new so vp on the truck 2 days ago
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Most likely. You have no idea of the condition of the pump. So I guess you might be looking to replace with a true remanufactured pump that you know is good. Like from CPP (Cummins Performance Parts) or Vulcan Performance.
 
Well the only thing left is checking for air leaks.

But as for the used pump the only way you going to know is swap a new or verified pump in and see if the problem goes away.
 
Well I got it to my shop. No air leaks. It ran ok most of the way. When I got a mile from the shop, I put it in neutral and it died. Roll started it and got to the shop and shut it off. Wouldn't start. Guessing the pump I just bought is junk. Should have p pumped this thing when I had the money. Thanks for the help!!! Merry Christmas
 
Cracked the fuel lines again, will only get fuel at cyl 4 when cranking. Gonna throw the HO pump on it for now and start saving my pennies for a p pump.
 
Got this from Blue Chip Diesel's website:
if you want to be 100% sure it IS the Injection Pump*causing the no start, follow the following directions exactly, to be sure of not damaging a possibly good pump. This test POSITIVELY eliminates the possibility of overlooking an electrical problem caused by other components that could affect the start or run function of the VP44, as long as you have verified fuel delivery to the Injection Pump. Remove the electrical plug at the back of the Injection Pump and hot wire the pins on the pump as follows. Get two wires long enough to reach from the battery to the VP44. Install an INSULATED ¼ inch female spade connector onto one end of each wire. Connect one INSULATED connector to pin 7 on the pump, which is the pin on the BOTTOM row of the socket on the Injection Pump, closest to the engine, to preferably fused (10 amp is fine) positive battery power in the PDC (Fuse box under the hood), or directly to the positive battery terminal if you like to take risks!

Connect the other INSULATED connector to the pin directly above the previous connection, the top row of pins, the one closest to the engine, and attach the other end to battery ground. Now try to start the engine and if it doesn’t start, you absolutely positively 100% need an Injection Pump! If the engine starts this way but NOT with the big plug installed on the pump, you know there is something in the harness or CAN bus wiring to the ECM telling or causing the engine to not start.*
 
It was definitely the pump. Was putting my other pump on and knocked the key way off the shaft. Had to pull the front cover off to find it. But it starts and runs. I can't get over how much power I lost in the upper rpm's with the ho pump.
 
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