Need turbo help, which one?

joelc79

joelc79

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So i've planned on twins ever since i got my cam installed. My turbo is overfueled for the air i have. Twins were kinda in the works but my tranny decided it didn't like me anymore. So there goes that money! With my sig, what turbo would be suggested. I hit 1600 egt s in like two seconds now. I need something that can be driven everyday till i can cough up some twin cash again.
 
Upgrade to a 64 wheel in your turbo. I ran a 64/71/14 with flux 3s and smarty on sw9 and it was pretty controllable. You could still peg 1600 but it took around 8-10 seconds as long as you weren't lugging it.
 
You could probably do a 66 with it. I ran a 64 with stock cam but in a 6 spd so we could put the rpms where we wanted to tow with it. I don't have any experience with a 66, but the 64 works good to daily drive with flux 3s and sw3 on beta 4.4. It would still make 45-50 lbs of boost and egts under 1400 most of the time.
 
joelc79 said:
So i've planned on twins ever since i got my cam installed. My turbo is overfueled for the air i have. Twins were kinda in the works but my tranny decided it didn't like me anymore. So there goes that money! With my sig, what turbo would be suggested. I hit 1600 egt s in like two seconds now. I need something that can be driven everyday till i can cough up some twin cash again.
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IMO, if you can peg your pyro in 2 sec w/ a cam, 62/71/14 turbo, and only 90 hp stix, you have problems and a bigger turbo isnt going to help. What boost level are you seeing?

And please explain how you are over fueled with that turbo, there probably over a 1000 people with roughly that combo and arent over fueled.
 
I see 800deg on highway driving(70mph) at 7-10psi boost. Max boost i've seen on my gauge is 45psi. I have never touched my wastgate that is on my HTT. All electronics off i have a really hard time hitting 1000deg. Before the cam it was totally fine. My timing is good, no boost leaks, lots of smoke = needs more air. Its not just the injectors, its the whole set up.
 
I don't get why it runs so hot now, unless you had so much fuel it was cooling the egts. I really liked the 64/71/14 with flux 3s and smarty beta 4.4. I could drive totally smoke free and not have to worry about egts. With all electronics off it would still make 40 lbs of boost and get to about 1400 egts pulling a trailer up a mile long hill. With the smarty the egts were actually cooler than the stock setting.
 
i've seen to many melted motors on here from water/meth, kinda scared of it.
 
who put the cam in?

maybe they degreed it wrong

you said everything was fine before the cam so that would be my guess

don
 
the marks are spot on. Plus you can def feel the difference in power and smoother rpm s. more power and black smoke = needs more air
 
i would say that if your peggin 1600 in 2 sec with a 62 then a 64 is not really going to help much and you should just skip it and go to a 66. but i'm thinking its still going to be warm and you spool is going to be a good bit slower. really anything bigger than a 66 isn't really that streetable for a daily driver. hence the reason most people go to twins.
 
what about a sliver bullet?

the marks are just for reference - you should use a degree wheel and a dial indicator whenever you install an aftermarket cam
 
DTanklage said:
what about a sliver bullet?

the marks are just for reference - you should use a degree wheel and a dial indicator whenever you install an aftermarket cam
Click to expand...

the cam is setup with the key way for the cam gear unless the key way is put in the wrong location on the cam shaft then there shouldn't have been an issue when installing the cam gear and lining it up with the timing marks.
 
thats why you centerline the cam

to check and see where it is (the centerline of the lobe in relation to the crank)

movin it 2° makes a difference

esp with a cam that has both lobes on it (in & ex)
 
this guy is running a lot smaller injectors and turbo than what you are talking about

you just throwing that out there for comparison?
 
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