No power to the dlc port

sandbagger

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Feb 5, 2012
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I just recently purchased my 01 1 ton auto and my CEL has came on. I was going to scan it but when I hook my obd2 scanner up all it gels me is there is no power going to dlc. I checked it with a dmm and found it infact has no power. I don't know a whole lot about what has been done to the truck as I bought it from a car lot and never could get in touch with the po. I know it has injectors, s and d intake, dp, straight exhaust, mystey turbo, gauges and possibly like some sort of valve body and torque converter. It apears to have had a wire tap box of some sort on it.

As far as the symptoms to go along with the CEL, it has an erratic idle and the tach stops reading. Also when the tach stops reading it looses major power. This is an intermentin problem and I can not link it to any certain other conditions. Somedays it does it as soon as I put it in gear and somedays it doesn't do it at all, but CEL is always on.

I apreciate any and all input. Thanks in advance.
 
I would check the wiring under the dash and inside fuse panel, the previous owner might have cut something they shouldnt have that supplies power to the dlc, as for your tach not working and the funny idle, I had a customers truck do the same thing, replaced the cam position sensor, fixed the problem.
 
I was thinking either the cam or crank sensor. I just hate throwing parts with out fully diagnosing the CEL. I will try to trace down the power wire and see if I can narrow down the open circuit. If I don't have any luck with that I will try the cam and/or crank sensor. I assume since you fixed your customers with a cam sensor that the tach tts it's signal from the cam sensor so I'll start there. Thanks for the help man I apreciate it and welcome any more comments or feed back from everyone else.
 
98.5-2000 models get it from the crank sensor, in 2001 they did away with the crank sensor, so 01 and 02 models get all signal from the cam sensor , which is located right underneath the vp44, hope this helps
 
Yes it helps a lot thanks man! I guess I'll go grab one This week and put it in and see what happens.
 
Also, to the OP about the DLC, don't know if it matters anymore but the #16 pin in the connector is the power supply pin. If your looking at the pin with the wide side on top the very far right bottom row is #16, probably had to use the "spare" fuse and never replaced it.



c6e4e1d9-5785-0d19.jpg

I remembered this from my book in college haha. It finally proved worthy.


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lol there ya go :cheer: check fuse 12. lol at least the way im reading it, its 12...
 
Yea looks like fuse 12.. Thanks guys.. I been sleeping all day all week (work 7p to 7a) but I'm off this weekend so I'll be working on it prolly Saturday and I'll let you guys know what I figure out. Thanks again fellas.
 
OBD power is always the cigarette lighter fuse

make sure the ECM is the correct ECM w/ the right software on it.

If you have the wrong year calibration on a VP truck it will start really rough and lope and then go into limp and smooth out and the tach will quit responding
 
If you have the wrong year calibration on a VP truck it will start really rough and lope and then go into limp and smooth out and the tach will quit responding

So basically the logics tells it to forget about the cam sensor? Interesting.




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Not exactly their chief. :D

CigLighter.jpg



...both diagrams are from a 2001 file and my 2002 is exactly the same as far as I can tell. I've been using the 2001 diagrams since I bought it.

sure they're not talking about the power port? cigarette lighter is constant hot, not key on.
 
My power port is constant hot n cig lighter is with key on...

I have yet to check anything out, but I don't think it's the ECM or anything because it's intermitten. Also it starts fine. I really do apreciate the help guys.
 
LOL this is a fun topic im learning.


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Lol either way I'll figure out which fuse it is.. Hopefully! Then I'll be sure to report back my findings..
 
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