No start, no turn signal or hazards

ChuMaDD

ChuMaDD

Meh
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Messages
613
Need a little help here I am banging my head against the wall :banghead::bang

I have a 97 12v, had a no start no crank. Check under hood fuel shut off solenoid didn't pull up, but will hold. So I manually pull it up and try to start but no luck just a single click and see a small spark on the positive side of the driver side battery. So I replace all my batteries (they were getting weak, but I got 7 years out of them surprisingly) and had some 2/0 cable laying around so I did the starting cables as well positive and negative. Try to start again and same problem, no start, no crank just a single click and the brake and abs light go on and off when I attempt to use the ignition switch to start like I am just using it as an accessory. I jump out my ignition switch with a push button and manually pull up the solenoid and the truck fires right up no problem.

While the truck is running I go to use the turn signals cause I was gonna turn in the street around to get closer to my garage and I got nothing. I replaced the multi function switch roughly 2 years ago. I see no fraying, or what might look like an open in the wires under the dash that would link the 2 issues together but I have seem to of lost my schematic for this year truck so I am pulling at straws right now. I am waiting on the fuse able link and a new relay right now but want to try and iron out anything else this could be... Am I missing a common ground that these might share? I don't have my multi meter with me at this time either so that isn't helping me. I am leaning towards the ignition switch going on me as well as some wiring issues on the dash.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Forgot to add, wipers and window washer pump work with no issues as well
 
Sounds like the relay for the shutoff solenoid is bad and the flashers in the fuse box are toast.
 
95cummins5.9 said:
Sounds like the relay for the shutoff solenoid is bad and the flashers in the fuse box are toast.
Click to expand...

The FSS relay is triggered by the starter solenoid. So the no crank condition would keep the FSS from pulling up. After he bypassed the ignition switch, he probably would've been able to start the truck with his push button even without pulling up the solenoid. Would be worth checking to rule that out of the equation.

Google 1996 Dodge Ram Service Manual, should be able to find a PDF file that will have all the wiring diagrams to help trace out your issue.
 
Tate said:
The FSS relay is triggered by the starter solenoid. So the no crank condition would keep the FSS from pulling up. After he bypassed the ignition switch, he probably would've been able to start the truck with his push button even without pulling up the solenoid. Would be worth checking to rule that out of the equation.

Google 1996 Dodge Ram Service Manual, should be able to find a PDF file that will have all the wiring diagrams to help trace out your issue.
Click to expand...

Thanks, the wiring diagram should really help. I will try not pulling up the FSS using my bypass to start tomorrow. For some odd reason I keep thinking the 2 problems are related.
 
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I've got the PDF 1996 Ram Service Manual on the PC at the shop, I can get to you tomorrow.
 
Sounds like a ground issue. Had similar problem recently on my ford dump truck. Some things worked others didnt. Then one day it wouldn't even crank.
 
94stroker said:
Sounds like a ground issue. Had similar problem recently on my ford dump truck. Some things worked others didnt. Then one day it wouldn't even crank.
Click to expand...

Do you happen to recall which ground gave you the problem?

Didn't get a chance to mess with the truck today cause of work.
 
Try changing the position of the tilt steering wheel. That's what fixed mine when it acted up.
 
Mine was the main ground from the battery to the body. Again this was a ford gasser aslo. The tilt column thing I had an old dodge neon that did that when the plug end melted.
 
Well I went through with the new fuse-able link new relay and same issue, I will probably just pull the solenoid out and put a manual cable for the fuel shut off in this weekend. I tired of trying to find the wire issue with this. (PS when I bypassed the ignition start the FSS didn't pull up on its own power before and after new parts.) Grounds from the battery all good, might be adding a few this weekend as well to the inside and the rear of the truck. Tilt changed nothing either.

As for the brake lights, turn signals and hazards found out that they all work when the hazards are in the "on" position. So now I am looking for a short somewhere I am assuming, or a grounding issue. I couldn't find the 96 service manual online for the wiring diagram did anyone have it on here?
 
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ChuMaDD said:
Well I went through with the new fuse-able link new relay and same issue, I will probably just pull the solenoid out and put a manual cable for the fuel shut off in this weekend. I tired of trying to find the wire issue with this. (PS when I bypassed the ignition start the FSS didn't pull up on its own power before and after new parts.) Grounds from the battery all good, might be adding a few this weekend as well to the inside and the rear of the truck. Tilt changed nothing either.

As for the brake lights, turn signals and hazards found out that they all work when the hazards are in the "on" position. So now I am looking for a short somewhere I am assuming, or a grounding issue. I couldn't find the 96 service manual online for the wiring diagram did anyone have it on here?
Click to expand...

Pull the relay out of the holder. Hopefully its numbered the same as the regular relay. #30 is power from the battery. So if you have 12v there, the fusible link is intact, although it may not be able to carry enough current. But good enough to keep looking. #85 is the trigger, so you should have 12v when the key is in the start position. This should be running from the starter solenoid terminal. #86 is the ground for the trigger. #87 is the power supply to the fuel solenoid itself. If you have power at #30, you should be able to put a jumper in to the 87 pin to get the solenoid to pull up. If it doesn't, jumper directly from the battery to 87 to bypass the fusible link. If all those check out, its probably a bum relay.
 
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