oil pan

G

gwhammy

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Joined
Sep 14, 2006
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Can you get the oil pan off with the motor in a two wheel drive. I've got a noise in the motor after the last time I put it together we can't figure out. I would like to pull the oil pan to have a look at the bearings. The cylinder walls and pistons looked good from the top. It mixed the oil and water bad and got a little hot before I got it shut down. I've drove it around 350 miles since the last retorque. Just held 65 lbs. of boost before a boot slipped of. The sound doesn't change much maybe a hair deeper under load. I'm thinking the antifreeze water might have hurt a bearing. Hoping to pull the pan and maybe roll bearings in it.
 
You can, loosen up motor mounts, and cab mounts, lift cab a bit raise motor, and pan will wiggle out.
 
That's what I would like to try. I really don't want to swap a motor, this truck has kinda wore me out right now. It's all my fault, not doing it right the first time. Going to try to get a buddy to put it on a lift to work on it.
 
Once you get all the oil pan bolts out, it'll drop a few inches, that will allow you to remove the 3-4 bolts holding the pickup tube making it easier on ya.

Some people slice the center crossmember out from under the oil pan. They box the ends and fab up tabs to make it bolt on/removable. I'll probably do that if I take the pan off again.
 
Thanks, slicing the crossmember on a two wheel drive might be hard, I could see doing that on a four wheel drive though. I would really like to fix this without pulling the motor. Next truck I'm going about this hot rod sh!t a little different.
 
It will come out, removing the 5-6 valve covers, fan shroud, mounts, hood, etc. Lift engine, remove bolts, lower pan, remove oil pump pick up tube bolts. Patience will help also. I don't ever recommend slicing, modifying, any support member jeporidizing the integrity of the frame.
 
gwhammy said:
Thanks, slicing the crossmember on a two wheel drive might be hard, I could see doing that on a four wheel drive though. I would really like to fix this without pulling the motor. Next truck I'm going about this hot rod sh!t a little different.
Click to expand...

I did it this way just in case.
DSC00008a-1.jpg
 
That is a nice crossmember, I'm not planning on doing this but once so we will try to do it by raising it. I've got a friend with a shop doing it on a hoist which will help alot. Pulling it wed. so I ought to know how bad I screwed up this time.
 
gwhammy said:
That is a nice crossmember, I'm not planning on doing this but once so we will try to do it by raising it. I've got a friend with a shop doing it on a hoist which will help alot. Pulling it wed. so I ought to know how bad I screwed up this time.
Click to expand...

:Cheer: I hope it goes as planned!
 
ya, I know and I didn't plan on but putting one head gasket on. If it has a bad piston I will pull the head again and try to do a inframe, not the best way I realize.
 
I just loosened motor mounts, and hoisted the motor up about 4 inches. Gave me plenty of room to wiggle it out.
 
Worked like a charm, had to take the hot pipe off of the 351 and got it up enough to stick bolts threw the motor mount holes under the motor mounts to hold it up.

Found some hard metal that looks like it was cut with drill bit, long and short slivers fairly hard metal. Also one oring about 5/8 to 3/4 accross cut in one spot in the pan. I only got to pull one rod bearing down and it looked great. We are going to pull each one and spin the top ones out to look at them.

We were wondering if these shavings could be off of the thrust bearing? Just a thought will find out tomorrow.

One question, are the rod bolts reuseable? I'll do a search but if someone has that knowledge would you post it on here please.

All the cylinder walls looked real good that I could see we'll get a better look at them tomorrow when we roll the motor over.
 
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