Oiling issues with various cams....Warning!!

Hamilton Cams

Hamilton Cams

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Jun 28, 2007
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Out of all of the cams we have ever cut, we have had 3 cams have issues with the journals eating into the blocks. After many hours on the phone with these customers I found one common denominator. Each one of them used a "special" blend of oils or an oil for some other application. I hear things like I have been using this stuff for years on my gas engines, or this stuff was recomended by this odd-ball oil company, or we didn't think we needed to run your additive. This is not an old gas engine, the odd-ball oil company is not the one who is going to warranty the cam if there is an issue, and our additive was made with keeping your cam happy and bumping as it's primary function.

Typically, all of the people are pissed that there was an issue. In every case I buy the cams back, have the journals polished and then run them in shop project trucks. All this to say that the cams are and were fine in the first place. Performance cams, with performance springs, have more stresses on them than factory components. Since we are going beyond factory specs, directions need to be followed. This means running a quality DIESEL oil from the start, Using a quality assembly lube LIBERALLY. Disconnecting the fuel source and not allowing the truck to start until after the engine has oil pressure, and using quality oil additive. I use either our zinc additive or Lucas synthetic oil additive. Lastly start the engine and let it rev to 1500 rpm for a few minutes and then re-adjust the valves. If you want our help with your truck if there is an issue, then be prepared to show us reciepts that prove that you followed our recommendations. I hate to go to this, but it is either this or give an IQ test before we sell each person a cam.

Thanks,

Zach Hamilton
 
ive had excellent luck with a CH/CI-4 API rating oil, Lucas high TBN CI-4, and/or a CJ-4 with a zinc additive...
 
Lucas also makes a zinc additive. I use one bottle of it with their oil stabilizer at every oil change. The oil I use is Wolf's Head Extreme Duty Synthetic Blend 15-40.

Engine Break-In Oil Additive - TB Zinc Plus

Protects camshaft lifters and valve train during break-in period of motor. Excellent for flat tappet camshafts during break-in or as an additive to any motor oil to prevent premature wear. Exclusive blend of extreme pressure additives.


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Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer
Lucas Oil Stabilizer is a 100% petroleum product formulated to eliminate dry starts and reduce friction, heat and wear in any type of engine. It allows motor oils a higher degree of lubricity which reduces oil consumption and operating temperatures. Use Lucas Oil Stabilizer in gear oil to stop leaks, reduce operating temperatures and increase the life of the gear oil. Since it is pure petroleum, it can safely blend with all other automotive lubricants, even synthetics, ATF and mineral oil. It keeps old engines alive and new engines new.

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Even with this warning it might still be cheaper to do the IQ test as well. :hehe:
 
Good call Zach! Too many are quick to toss a builder under the wheel for their mistakes.
 
CSnyder said:
Good call Zach! Too many are quick to toss a builder under the wheel for their mistakes.
Click to expand...

Then exspect the builder to fix everything and then talk trash about them if everything doesn't go exactly how they want it. i know a few people on these forums that are like that. even when it is shown to be their fault they will still try to make it out like its the other guys mistake.... guys like that just need a swift kick in the nuts :kick:
 
Anytime there is something manufactured there is a chance that something can get past quality control. THis is just part of being in this line of business, but when you have to eat a cam because of someone not following instructions when they are sent with the product, that is not too cool. Regardless of who you buy a aftermarket cam or other product, please follow their instructions. And if you do something like fill your crankcase with fuel and then have an issue with your cam or turbo, please be man enough to step up and take it on the chin.

My goal is not to be a jerk, but to keep you from having to tear back into your engine and me from having to give freebies that I should not have to give out.

As far as oil. I have had good luck with most major brands + additive for startup and at minimum a quality diesel oil for daily drivers. On my trucks I either run Amsoil 15-40(marine when I can find it) or the Rotella 5-40 +additive. I have seen no startup issues with rotella, schaeffer, amsoil, delo, delvac, and castrol. There are many good products on the market and there is no way I can research them all, but you should be able to find one of the mentioned oils in your area for at least break-in.

The main issue is startup which is where a lot of the initial contact begins. I have seen people reving engines before there is adequate oil pressure, or starting engines that don't have oil pressure yet. BIG no no with the pressures, lift and duration we have today. I have made the lobes wider than most of the aftermarket cams with .860"-1.020" depending on the core which takes care of the lobe wear, but there is not a lot you can do for the journals other than put bushings in the block. Although most people already know this, don't get on your engine hard before it reaches operating temperature. All of the clearances in your engine were designed to be correct at X temp. not ambient, especially the headgasket. For all of you newbies, the engine is not 100% rigid, it moves around more than you might think.


Thanks

Zach Hamilton
 
Hamilton Cams said:
Anytime there is something manufactured there is a chance that something can get past quality control. THis is just part of being in this line of business, but when you have to eat a cam because of someone not following instructions when they are sent with the product, that is not too cool. Regardless of who you buy a aftermarket cam or other product, please follow their instructions. And if you do something like fill your crankcase with fuel and then have an issue with your cam or turbo, please be man enough to step up and take it on the chin.

My goal is not to be a jerk, but to keep you from having to tear back into your engine and me from having to give freebies that I should not have to give out.

As far as oil. I have had good luck with most major brands + additive for startup and at minimum a quality diesel oil for daily drivers. On my trucks I either run Amsoil 15-40(marine when I can find it) or the Rotella 5-40 +additive. I have seen no startup issues with rotella, schaeffer, amsoil, delo, delvac, and castrol. There are many good products on the market and there is no way I can research them all, but you should be able to find one of the mentioned oils in your area for at least break-in.

The main issue is startup which is where a lot of the initial contact begins. I have seen people reving engines before there is adequate oil pressure, or starting engines that don't have oil pressure yet. BIG no no with the pressures, lift and duration we have today. I have made the lobes wider than most of the aftermarket cams with .860"-1.020" depending on the core which takes care of the lobe wear, but there is not a lot you can do for the journals other than put bushings in the block. Although most people already know this, don't get on your engine hard before it reaches operating temperature. All of the clearances in your engine were designed to be correct at X temp. not ambient, especially the headgasket. For all of you newbies, the engine is not 100% rigid, it moves around more than you might think.


Thanks

Zach Hamilton
Click to expand...


:clap: your right many do not know that
 
How many trucks do you see at a sled pull that never warm them up before they pull, almost all of them.
 
Zach, just saw this thread, what are you feelings on Rev-X oil additive, would that be sufficient or do we still need to run the Zinc additive or Lucas Stabilizer?
 
Yes, stock blocks without bushings.

Garrett, THe Lucas zinc additive will work fine. Also we are doing some testing on an even better additive. As far as Rev-x, I don't know anything about it. I would have to send it in for spectragraph reading and put it on a bearing load tester.

Zach
 
Finish the tappets and cams and the break in process is no longer an issue.

REM finish that is
 
Ive run valvoline 15-40 conventional and amsoil 15-40 synthetic in the winter for a couple years and my valvetrain ate itself. Zach's not kidding about the ZDDP. I wouldnt rely on oil to have the right amount, I think even with the older spec mfr's have lowered the amount of zinc in the oil. and whos to know when that happens? Not like they print it on the bottle. Cost me a pile too.. !#$%!@# EPA enviro-bullcrap.
Thanks again Zach for warranty'ing the parts even though it wasnt the fault of your product at all.

If someone comes out with a roller cam kit that isnt made for drag racing, just a mild performance cam, Id sure be interested.
 
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