OK, honest answer and dont laugh at me!!!

strokedviking

strokedviking

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Joined
Aug 31, 2006
Messages
114
OK i know this sounds bad so dont make fun of me, but i think my diff. is fried!?
and now is where someone comes in and asks, why do you think that? and here is where i look like a dumb ass and say. i cant get both tires to break loose. not that i'm trying to break them loose:doh: but if i ever really get on it i will always just spin the one tire! and back in the day right when i put the SCT on, i put down two big ass marks on the road and my truck hauld ass! but now i feel like my truck isnt as quick as it used to be and i feel that the limited slip is not working...any input?
i guess i am just wondering if my diff is f-ed and its contributing to the loss of power i seem to have come across. and plus i am just sick of always having the right rear tire bald:lolly:

thanks!
 
Yep. There are some clutch plates that can wear in our limited slip differentials. Yours may be worn out. When they wear, the differential acts like a conventional differential.
 
My stock l/s is the same. I pulled about 6 boosted holeshots before it said "I quit" and has never hooked up again.
The stocker is weak so I would recommend going to an aftermarket unit.

I can't see any connection between a loss of performance and a smoked l/s though, unless you had some kind of drag somewhere, which you would feel. Any parts in the rear running hot?

Just for s&g's you should re-load your SCT tune or do a battery disconnect to reset the adaptive strategy.
 
hey thanks for the responcess!
i just figured that a week or gone l/s would result in a loss in power. i know in the land of rotarys(thats where i grew up) when we would do a pull and the car had a bad l/s or it wasnt upgrated the car would have speratic dyno charts. i know they are two totaly different vehicals, but i just figured that a bad l/s would result in a different vehical also!?
i've re-installed the tune many times and just recentlly did have the batteries both un-plugged. it just seems that my truck is not the same animal it was when i first put the tune in it. every once and a while its pretty fast and sometimes it just feels slow! maybe i'm just numb to power now?
i did just put a accufab intake elbow on it the other week and it did seem to pull alittle harder and smother. i dont know, i guess i just need a built trans, some sticks and big turbo! oh yeah, and put the arp head studds in that are sitting on my work bench!:doh:
thanks for your help guys!
 
strokedviking said:
i'm running eric's extreme street tune.
Click to expand...

If you are numb to the power, step up to Eric's Extreme RACE tune......yet another kick to your arse...it will give you another ~30-40hp over the Extreme street file you are using now.

BTW...your stock L/S is fried....but is under warranty if you want to go stock again for free.





.
 
yeah i was going to call eric for the next best thing:ylsuper:

i was thinking about taking it to ford, but how would i go about trying to explain that the diff is fried? "uh, when i floor my truck only one wheel spins!" i think i am just asking for trouble on that one! and they already mentioned that the tires seemed alittle bald the last time i took it in there for oil change! as i recall the service writers exact words," every thing seems to be fine! oh, and by the way, it seems you've been spinning the tires off pretty good. you might want to get some new tires!":doh:
and i have gotten new tires since!
thanks!
 
I tried to get mine covered, no dice!
I was told the stock l/s is not supposed to turn both tires and mine was "normal"
They did a torque break test on it and came up with 26#, the acceptable range (so I was told) is 20-100#

If you want to rebuild it, I have a Ford rebuild kit still in the box that I will sell you for cheap, but the money would be better spent on a new, better, unit
 
Yeah, the stock Limited Slip isn't the greatest.
Mine worked well.....but when I swapped diff covers I didn't put as much friction modifier in as I probably should have :D

ARB sitting in both diffs of my truck now :rockwoot:

Auburn L/S or Detriot Locker as also good options to replace the stock with.
 
thanks for the replies guys!
i would love to get a new l/s but i dont know if thats in my budget right now! how much would like a detroit cost? probably like 2g's right?:bang
 
$600 is about right, plan on another $3-500 for install, lube, etc..
 
I wonder what a standard Detroit swap is labor wise.


I mean....it's not hard. Pull the carrier, remove the ring gear and tone ring. Measure the ring mounting flange to bearing seat on both the stock L/S and the Detroit....press the tone ring back on, bolt the ring gear one, shim accordingly. Reinstall. Check tolerances. Install cover, fill with lube....and your good :D
 
I was guessing it would be a similar cost to a full rear set up.
Like you said, it would take less time, but the last time I had gears done, the guy charged by the job not the hour. $250 rear, $350 front
 
Yeah, they generally charge by the job. $250 isn't that bad for a shop charge.
 
I know a few gears ago I was basically quoted $350 per axle for a gear swap.

Another $300 for ARB install.

Instead, I opted to do the install with a couple friends of mine who used to be employed by ZF Industries and worked on axles all the time :D
 
having a good mechanic as one of your best friends is great. you get to volunteer him for jobs like turbos and rear diff etc. only problem is mine flakes half the time. guess thats the only problem when your buds work for free
 
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