Oliver Super 77 Project

Bersaglieri

Bersaglieri

Ron Swanson's Brother
Joined
Jan 8, 2008
Messages
1,957
I meant to post this when I bought it, but here she is...

1957 Oliver Super 77

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I didn't plan on making a big project out of this tractor, but like all other things I own, certain stuff needs fixed or upgraded.

She starts right up and runs well, but has a slight miss. Unless my grandpa's gauge is off, she's a little low on compression. The cylinders read between 60-95psi with a little oil on a few plugs. So I'm thinking about doing a rebuild this fall before I need to push snow. Rebuild the head and perhaps port it a little. I think the wheels and tires are from a 66 or Super 66 tractor and I'm currently looking for wider wheels and 14.9 tires, maybe go cast. I've been told the Marvel TSX363 carb is too small for it and it needs at least a TSX374, a TSX755 if I don't mind the fuel usage. She's seeping hydraulic fluid somewhere, after a month or so the level drops.

So far I've done plugs, wires, a carb rebuild, flushed the radiator, set the points, new fan belt, and bought a TSX755 carb for it. Other than that she's a good worker, mowing, pulling trees from the woods, etc.

Current to do list:
Stainless exhaust stack
Shifter/hydraulic boots
14.9x38 tires
Wider wheels/rims
Engine rebuild/overhaul
Find hydraulic leak

Now that I've wrote it down, that's a pretty expensive list.
 
Update:

Bought nearly new 14.9x38 tires on cast centers and new 12" rims. However I had to buy lug bolts from Brad since the ones for the steel wheels are too short. I also bought my shifter/lever boots from him, hopefully they show up today and I'll finish putting on my new wheels and tires.

My girlfriend spotted the hydraulic leak when we were taking off the old wheels, should have that fitting fixed shortly as well.

New list:
Stainless exhaust
Engine build
 
I see how you are....buying your Oliver parts from the Oliver guru's.....LOL


Glad you're getting everything squared away. Brad can help you much more on that green paint than I can;)

Chris
 
I know I know, it was just convenient since he was shipping the bolts and he was so seductive on the phone...

I still need to get over to your place to check out the collection, been on call alot and can't be that far from home.
 
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LOL

I have sad news for you. The post office was out of small flat rate boxes the other day. They're supposed to have a pile of them for me today, hopefully you'll see parts tomorrow.
 
No problem Brad, it's raining down here and it's a little too slippery to be wrestling tires anyways.

Can you recommend anything else for my list, other than the actual rebuild stuff of course. I hear people talking 'electric ignition'.. is that a must do for my purpose? Anything else I should be change or upgrade while the motor is out?
 
Had a close family member pass, so I didn't do anything for about a week. But, today I opened Brad's package [if you know what I mean] and swapped out the wheels/tires. Thanks for that Brad, the bolts worked great. I had to center the rim on the cast center on the left side, who ever put them on had them mounted a little crooked. Gonna mow with her tomorrow one last time before I put the mower up for the winter. Hoping to pull the motor in the next week or so and see what's inside...

PS Brad, couldn't remember if I told you but my Dodge did have a groove in the block and an oring behind that plug.
 
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Glad to hear you got it up and using it. As far as suggestions on the rebuild, electronic ignition is a good idea, they don't seem to make any more power, but they seem to start quicker and run smoother. Only use C87 AC plugs, 3 3/4 bore, correct head gasket, new wristpin bushings.

If you want to splurge a bit, weight match the pistons and rods, and balance the crank, front pulley, flywheel, and pressure plate. It may seem silly on a engine like that, but it makes a very noticeable difference.

The flywheel is probably dual drilled for a 9 or 10 inch clutch. If you have to replace it, go with the 10.

If you need to replace valves, cut the head for bigger valves and use late 550 valves.
 
Thanks for the info Brad. If you were going to put a stainless straight pipe, would you just buy an 2 3/8" to 3 or 3.5 adapter and run the pipe above that or is there a better way? I know everyone uses the chrome pipes with a smaller diameter pipe inside, but I really dislike chrome on just about anything.


I was thinking the Oliver ran a little too good for the low compression numbers I recorded so I cashed in a few gift cards and bought a threaded compression gauge kit. Grandpa's gauge must be off because I got between 130-165psi between the six holes. I think that's good enough put off the rebuild until a later time. Didn't see any oil on plugs this time either.

Question on compression test techniques. I did mine on a cold motor and let it hit the compression stroke 3-4 times per cylinder. Someone told me the motor needs to be hot, others told me it doesn't matter, what do you guys say?


Also the TSX755 carb is going to need a bigger intake pipe, should I reduce it down to the oil bath intake, fab something up or find one from a 770 or ?

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14.9x38 and cast wheels are on. Also seen is my slightly oversized IH-40 blade.
 
In typical fashion is seems now that winter has hit my ole gal doesn't want to start. Now it's not related to fuel or the cold necessarily but something it going on with the battery or generator. Now I've never owned a tractor with a generator so bear with me.

The situation is I can jump the tractor and it'll run fine all day. I can jump the dead battery and pull the cables off immediately and it continues to run. Now that tells me the ignition side of the generator is working and leads me to think either the battery [which doesn't look that old] can't hold a charge or the charging side of the generator is not operating. Electronics are my quantum physics, so can anyone tell me how to use a multimeter to test the generator and/or battery?

I also need to make a decision on the exhaust stack, that old muffler is ugly as sin and one of these days a tree branch is going to fling that hot bugger right into my lap. I'm thinking a 3 or 3.5" stainless stack.

Electric ignition is on my list of to-do's, especially if it'll help the cold winter starts.
 
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Generator got rebuild about a month ago and Napa prorated my battery and I got a new one. Starts and runs well, but something is off about the wiring though, I'm still tracking that down.

I really stopped in to talk about pulling. This girl is clearly a work horse, but I'd like to pull her for fun this summer. I know I'm at a weight disadvantage because of the 3 point and cast wheels, but I'm wondering if anyone knows of a farm stock class where a working tractor might fit into. I've got to get her weighed to know where to start, but wanted to see where to look for these classes. From what I've been told from guys who used to pull antique farm stock, "people just want to see highly modded antiques or V8's, no one wants to see old tractors pull dead weight like when you [me] were a kid". And places that used to pull that style when I was a kid, don't even host those events anymore, so it's at least partially true.

Also I need more front weight since that IH blade is so large. It worked well in the snow until I lifted it and dipped into a shallow ditch, then it was hang time for about 15 feet. The stack weights that bolt onto my factory base weight are about $350 each, so I'll be fabricating a bracket to use some suitcase weights I have.
 
I think I found the leak:

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I didn't tear into it because I didn't want to lose most of my fluid, Brad are there rubber or copper seals in that rounded fitting? I'm guessing it's like a banjo style shaft inside that rounded elbow? Looks to be leaking out the sides and running down.
 
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As a stock tractor, tug pulling is you best bet and maybe only option. It takes a well built tractor to compete in most transfer sled pulling. Have fun find a tug pull though. We have very few through the year. It is one place that a stock tractor can compete.
 
I pull "pure farm" classes, not sure where your at in the state, but New Lexington FFA has 4000, and 6000 pure farm class, Glenford runs a 5500, and ther was another but it went to crap and I haven't been back to it. I think it has a little more to do with what they are using for speed limits myself, if your motor is healthy enough to run a little faster, as long as you can dial it in for the power/traction you have you'd be fine. Also if interested in tug (dead weight) pulling, the Millersport sweetcorn festival pulls are pretty good, and free!
 
Thanks guys. The tractor is near Chillicothe, but I sometimes take it home our farm near East Canton. I guess maybe I'm getting old since the pulling I remember as a kid was only tug for antiques. It was nice cause it seemed people with actual farm tractors showed up. I suppose the late 80's and 90's weren't exactly last weekend. Maybe I should try out one of these plow days. Never heard of them, but I guess it would be more suitable for a "working" tractor than transfer sled pulling.

I went cheap on my exhaust. I'm putting a nice stainless exhaust on hold, since I realized the exhaust manifold thread was just plain old 2" pipe. I just grabbed a spare piece I had laying around and threaded it in. It looks ok, might have to cut it down a little shorter, but 10x better than the broken and rusty wobble muffler that came with her. She now has that sound I remember my Uncle's 77 having when he used to pull in the 90's.

Updated list:
Bug Brad about leak
Buy parts from Brad to fix leak
Rebuild and install TSX755
Build weight bracket for suitcase weights because stack weights are $350each.


Also I found a 4 bottom Oliver plow for a deal. I'm not sure if she could handle it, but Grandpa's tired Ford 871 would pull a 3 bottom Oliver no problem, so I want to believe it could work, or maybe I could just remove one of them. Any input on this? It's a 3 point style like my Grandfather's or so it looks in the picture. I thought it might be to heavy, but the dual pistons seem to have enough grunt for anything, it's just the 3pt axle mounting apparatus that might be taxed heavy.
 
Not the closest, but Perry Co. Fair has a tug, and a fall tug at the fairgrounds as well. I kinda prefer the sweet corn festival for the tug pull, it's a multi evening pull, usually fairly big country act one or two nights as well, and if you're pulling, you get free admission! Has been 4500 and 5500 Thursday night, 6500 Friday night, and 7500 and 8500 Saturday night. No money involved, just draw numbers for hook order, and top 3 get plaques. That's in Millersport, on Buckeye lake.
 
Waterford, Beverly, and Marietta have tug pulls. Washington county antique tractor and equipment club have regular tug pulls. Bit of a haul for you but always good competition.
 
Thanks guys I'll look into those. Buckeye Lake isn't far at all really. What do you guys pull and which classes?

And the plow I'm trying to buy is a 344 Oliver plow and the 4th bottom is removable so it seems like a good deal.
 
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Turns out the plow is a 365 model, and it has a flange to add or remove the 4th bottom. People tell me plows are obsolete, but I figure for a couple acre plot it might be just right. I haven't looked at it closely, but it seems there are no major breaks or welds, I haven't even attempted to lift it with the Super 77 yet. Although I'm sure the bearings are worn and the edges are dull.

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The hydraulic leak I found was fixed with a basic oring kit from Oreilys. Backed out that stamped nut, removed a snap ring and put new ones on.

I put the Super to the test moving snow with that big blade. It actually worked better than any other antique tractor I've ever used to move snow with. Our 871 Ford would get high centered easily and you were constantly on the brakes to get power to the other wheel. The Super [with 3 additional suitcase weights up front] had plenty of power to fill that blade and move snow. Not sure how the rear ends work, but when I saw a slight slip on the right tire, I went to stab the brake to transfer power and it did it on it's own. I let the blade get too full to see if it would spin out and without touching the brakes the rear transferred power left and right almost walking the tractor much further than I expected. It acted like a smart open diff or posi. I've got tire chains that might make this a snow moving monster. [at least in my eyes]. Here is a picture of the Super 77 moving snow last week: [I can't get the picture to tilt up, so anyone who knows how please tell me]

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If you want to hit the sweet corn festival pull, for rules, look up Millersport sweet corn festival they're posted there, basically 18" hitch, height and from center, uncut tires.
 
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