Over heating 6.7

kurtswater

kurtswater

New member
Joined
Jul 30, 2009
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84
Has anyone heard of a bad turbo making the truck over heat. I am running the smarty ME program 5 inch exhaust H&S egr cooler delete and a Dr.Performace fuel box. I have already changed the thermostat so I know that isn't the problem. the truck has 39k miles on it. The thing I find strange is when ever it runs hot I can turn the exhaust break on and it cools off and runs fine.
 
Well I thought head gasket at first but if I run the truck with the exhaust brake on it never even hit 200 no matter how hard you run it.
 
Do you have a p2262 code? Has the dealer done any "turbo" cleaning, replacement or work? These turbo's make LOTS of backpressure, which I have seen lift a lot of heads, causing the over heat situation. Under WOT the turbo will spike 70-80psi of backpressure for a few seconds until the computer can adjust. That is killer on stock head bolts.
 
curtrwall said:
Do you have a p2262 code? Has the dealer done any "turbo" cleaning, replacement or work? These turbo's make LOTS of backpressure, which I have seen lift a lot of heads, causing the over heat situation. Under WOT the turbo will spike 70-80psi of backpressure for a few seconds until the computer can adjust. That is killer on stock head bolts.
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70-80psi killer on stock head bolts? The same ones that hold the 2,000+ psi of combustion pressure?
 
It has never set any codes and the truck has never been to the dealer. It has from time to time acted like the exhaust brake was on and the truck would dump alot of smoke and not even move itself. After3 key cycles it would run fine.
 
Devan Manis said:
70-80psi killer on stock head bolts? The same ones that hold the 2,000+ psi of combustion pressure?
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That was about the most uneducated responce, dive pressure is one of the major killer of headgaskets. would you feel ok about cramming 70-80 psi of boost into an engine with stock bolts. the drive pressure works the same way.
 
Pony_Kegger said:
That was about the most uneducated responce, dive pressure is one of the major killer of headgaskets. would you feel ok about cramming 70-80 psi of boost into an engine with stock bolts. the drive pressure works the same way.
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Really? How so? Whats the difference between craming boost into an engine and drive pressure? That's right, the higher cylinder pressure that results from the added air and advanced timing. Maybe before you call my response uneducated you should educate your self a little.
 
You know what, on second thought, your probably right, every one with an exhaust brake should probably take it off for fear of blowing a head gasket.
 
Devan Manis said:
Really? How so? Whats the difference between craming boost into an engine and drive pressure? That's right, the higher cylinder pressure that results from the added air and advanced timing. Maybe before you call my response uneducated you should educate your self a little.
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Whats right?? that there is no difference on what pressure the headgasket sees. because that was kind of my point. and as for your little e-brake stunt i wonder what the cyl pressure is when you have 80psi of EP well it might be alot, but the reason you dont see gasket failures for that is because the injector does not fire. No bang means, no 2000+ cyl pressure. = no headgasket failure do the e-brake.
The fact that was there was the veins in the turbo could get coked and not move properly when going WOT, giving the situation of 80psi of EP at WOT
Not with the e-brake. not while at a stoplight. it was at WOT
 
Dude back pressure is back pressure no matter how you slice it. It is FAR from the same as boost that you used as the example of why the head gasket blows. As far as my That's right statement it's kind of rhetorical because I give you the answer following the comma. You might try some punctuation yourself maybe more people than just you could understand what you just tried to say. This is so far off topic from what the thread was started for. You can pm me I would love to discuss this at length.
 
How does drivepressure get back into the cylinder through the exhaust valve so quick to cause failure of the headgasket. Wouldn't the pressure that the DP gauge is seeing be coming from the the points created with the turbine wheel and the surface of the exhaust valve? Also the walls of the manifold?
 
Don't forget the piston crown for when the valve is open. Pony Kegger, feel free to educate me, those that know me also know i'm open minded enough to entertain different theory's than those i've decided to side with, because if i'm wrong I want to know why and be in the right. Hell three months ago I would have told you drive pressure kills head gaskets, but I studied up on it a little and changed my mind.
 
Devan I will pm you about it, It maybe tuesday, we have tried the high drive pressure thing, ya it does not work out well. we where useing a 62/71/14 and we had 8x14 nozzles. when the boost went past 57 or so the dp was almost 100, I only did it 3 pulls like that and blew the headgasket. MLS with 625 studs. same studs new gasket and new turbo. 64/17/13, with larger wastegates, set gates at 57, DP 68 and no gasket failure. the only thing we changed was the DP and it made the difference of failing to not failing. So you can have a theory, but it is just a theory. Anyway high drive pressure is counter productive. I hope this clears things up some.
Back to the OP and his heating issue, does the temp come down if you just let off the throttle, while say going 60, or is only when you have the switch for the E-brake on.
 
The temp comes down as soon as you turn the switch on and let off the pedal with the Ebrake on from that point you can turn the switch off and it while run cool until you have to stop and idle for a few min.
 
ok Are there any codes, I am thinking fan clutch. because it will star heating when you are stoped. how is the A/c proformance.
 
does it downshift when you have the eb on? i'm wondering if the higher rpm increases the fan speed and cools it down. Is your radiator clean? I know it's a stupid question, but often times those things get over looked for simplicity's sake.
 
kurtswater said:
It has from time to time acted like the exhaust brake was on and the truck would dump alot of smoke and not even move itself. After3 key cycles it would run fine.
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If you can find a turbo from an '09 truck it will take care of this. Hardware changed for this issue.
 
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