P7100 timing, spill port/ pump lock pin method

ahale2772

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Oct 27, 2011
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Hey guys,

my 94 has never been touched, pump is original, and it it timed to stock specs, say 14* for reference, have not yet looked at the data plate to check it for sure.

I've got the snapon 6bt timing kit with the dial indicator and all that, but im not a fan of that method really.

Can anyone give me some advice on how to time the pump just by using the balancer, or even a degree wheel mounted to the balancer?

I know there can be inconsistancies of where TDC is, but If I was to pull an injector, use a dial indicator to find tdc, mark the balancer, and time it without ever pulling the #1 holder apart, how would I do it?

just looking for some advice here, not opinins on what method is easier yada yada yada...

is 1* on the balancer= 1* on the pump? what way would I rotate the motor when looking for more advance? is there anysense in rotating the motor past my desired degree and then back to account for gear lash?

thanks...
 
If you don't want to touch the delivery valve holder than you are really just guessing. The timing could have slipped and it could be who knows where. But I know people get into predicaments or something so here is what you would have to do, just remember, this could be off by a couple degrees..

To find TDC use the valve drop method, search for that as it's all over the internet. Mark TDC on the dampner. Take the timing pin plug thing out of the ppump and get the little notch centered dead nuts then without moving the pump (use a barring tool or something to hold the engine) break the nut loose on the pump then use a gear puller to pop it off the shaft. That timing pin thing should still be centered inside the viewing window hole. That means when the engine is at TDC, the pump is at stock timing. That pin on the pump is in the center when the engine is at TDC and the timing is at the stock value. Knowing that, you can then move the engine back to TDC (though it should be at it if the timing was stock) then you can use degree tape on the damper (yes 1* on the damper is 1* on the pump). Since you popped the gear off, you can turn the engine backwards (counterclockwise from the front) the amount of degrees in addition to the stock timing value. Meaning if it is 13* stock, then going back 2* will set you at 15*. So go back whatever amount needs to be added to stock to get the desired timing. The gear lash does need to be factored in so when you are about to crank it backwards, take a note of where the TDC mark ends up. It might end up half a degree back, so that means go half a degree past 2* as well for that 15*. Tighten the pump gear up to 145ft lbs and there you have it. This is pretty crude but if you are sure it hasn't slipped then there is no reason it couldn't be accurate, though the timing pin in the pump is not always dead nuts.
 
Bust the nut loose before you pin the pump. The gear will still be stuck but this way you won't bust the pin in the pump if you turn the motor over a little. Pin it before you pull the gear loose. I think .081 thousands on the harmonic balancer is 1 degree of timing. Example three degrees times .081 is .243 or almost a quarter inch. So six degrees would be .486 or half inch roughly.

Big Blue has a good write up, this is mostly his info not mine.
 
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Thanks fellas, i know it isnt 100% accurate, but i think it should be good for this 94 i have now, just looking for a few more degrees to get me into the 20MPG range
 
What's wrong with the standard dial indicator way? Why is it that you don't like it? It's not perfect but picking the ideal timing setting isn't an exact science either.

There is always the drop valve method to find TDC and you can time it using the timing pin in the pump].
 
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What's wrong with the standard dial indicator way? Why is it that you don't like it? It's not perfect but picking the ideal timing setting isn't an exact science either.

There is always the drop valve method to find TDC and you can time it using the timing pin in the pump].

Dito, it would be cool to do just because but no one would want to pay me to do it, price would be too high.

Jim
 
i use the drop valve method, it gets it close enough, then i just mark the harmonic balancer for future reference, that way you just have to pull the valve covers and adjust timing as necessary.
 
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