Pcm Code 53: Does it mean death to PCM

S

Sarge1

Sarge
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
196
To all who have had code 53 in their PCM, did you end up having to replace the PCM? I have good power in on key and constant. I have to trace out grounds and test them still. The engine speed sensor is working. Pretty much any circuit the pcm sends a ground signal to, is not working. This includes trans overdrive/torque convertor, a/c clutch, wait to start, wif, ck eng light, grid heaters, and alt regulator. I have the 12v going to the different components, just not getting signal ground from PCM. Does anyone one have the wiring schematics of the PCM for a 95 2500 w/ auto. Thanks for anyones insite.
 
Sarge1 said:
To all who have had code 53 in their PCM, did you end up having to replace the PCM? I have good power in on key and constant. I have to trace out grounds and test them still. The engine speed sensor is working. Pretty much any circuit the pcm sends a ground signal to, is not working. This includes trans overdrive/torque convertor, a/c clutch, wait to start, wif, ck eng light, grid heaters, and alt regulator. I have the 12v going to the different components, just not getting signal ground from PCM. Does anyone one have the wiring schematics of the PCM for a 95 2500 w/ auto. Thanks for anyones insite.
Click to expand...

Get a Haynes Manual... The wiring diagram is in the back. It will even break down what pins do what, what's an input and what's an output.

All of those components will get 12v from the key. My PCM has been out (by that I mean behind my seat) for the last 2 years and I have hotwired lock-up/OD and the heater grids simply by switching the grounds (the charging system was a little more complicated).
 
Does all of your guages work?
Not to hijack the thread but my truckis doing the same stuff. No wait to start grid heaters etc... All my guages work but the tach and speedometer. Just trying to figure out what was wron gon mine also. What are the differences between an auto pcm and a manual pcm?
Thanks Joe
 
My buddy's 97 was doing the same thing you said yours is doing. Replaced the PCM, cured the problem.
 
Yes I have the Haynes manual, not all the pinouts are in the manual. All of my gauges work, except for the fuel gauge which never worked. I have traced all wires out through the haynes manual. Seems from time to time the pcm does not power up. The ck engine light, overdrive light, and water in fuel dont light up upon key on. I have also direct wired my transmission tcc and lockup so I would have overdrive now.

95 ctd,

The auto trans pcm would have the circuits for the trans lockup and the overdrive. I would check to see if your Crankshaft speed sensor is shorted or out of adjustement. This would cause tach not to work plus other issues due to the pcm is not seeing the engine is running

Blackskyracing,

How did you get the alternator to charge? Did you wire in a different regulator, external internal?? I saw some were doing that but the 120+ amps was knocking the regualors out the they were using. The main concern I have now is to get the alternator charging. If you can enlighten me on what you did, it be much appreciated. The other circuits are easily wired out. Thanks for the reply, I knew someone ran into this before
 
95ctd said:
Does all of your guages work?
Not to hijack the thread but my truckis doing the same stuff. No wait to start grid heaters etc... All my guages work but the tach and speedometer. Just trying to figure out what was wron gon mine also. What are the differences between an auto pcm and a manual pcm?
Thanks Joe
Click to expand...

Your PCM is fried, my speedo/tach do not work. Look at your voltage guage and see if it is charging (should read around 14v). Manual PCM doesn't won't control the lock-up and OD in your transmission, easy enough to hotwire them though; everything else would work.
 
Sarge1 said:
Blackskyracing,

How did you get the alternator to charge? Did you wire in a different regulator, external internal?? I saw some were doing that but the 120+ amps was knocking the regualors out the they were using. The main concern I have now is to get the alternator charging. If you can enlighten me on what you did, it be much appreciated. The other circuits are easily wired out. Thanks for the reply, I knew someone ran into this before
Click to expand...


Went down to the local auto parts store and got an external regulator off of a ford. Older model year something like an 86 I do believe, it was pretty simple to wire in. Needed switched power, ground, and a field wire IIRC. Been on there for the last 2 years with no problems, though it can't keep up if I have the grid heaters on.
 
Blackskyracing,

Thanks for the reply. I need to get something working unit my replacement pcm comes in, so ext reg is looking good so far.
 
Thanks Blackskyracing, Yeah my volts are around 12. I was wondering if they were the same, beacause i got a manual my buddy has auto I was just gonna try it. How do you set up the tach and speedometer with out one. I'm probably gonna get an aftermarket tach any way, So mostly the speedometer
Thanks again
Joe
 
95ctd said:
Thanks Blackskyracing, Yeah my volts are around 12. I was wondering if they were the same, beacause i got a manual my buddy has auto I was just gonna try it. How do you set up the tach and speedometer with out one. I'm probably gonna get an aftermarket tach any way, So mostly the speedometer
Thanks again
Joe
Click to expand...

Autometer makes an electronic speedometer that works off of your current speed sensor. What I do not know is whether you will have to somehow get a 5volt or 12volt reference voltage to the sensor... Originally it works on a 5 volt reference and I do not know if the Autometer would require a 12 volt reference or not. The question then would be if the stock sensor would hold up to 12 volts; a 5 volt reference would only require a step down transformer that could be found at radio shack.

Yey for electronics :bang
 
I would double check the crank sensor that is what was wrong with mine when the dash and OD would not work.
 
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