Performance brakes

97singlecab

97singlecab

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Mar 12, 2008
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Does anyone know a good place to get good upgraded brakes for a dodge. Mine are pretty much shot from to many high speed attempts at stopping. I would like to get some nice slotted and drilled rotors maybe. Has anyone ran these before and does anyone know how many miles they tend to last?
 
Hey thanks for the replies I haven't checked on here in a little bit. It is a 4x4 and the brakes are really hating life now. I'll look into those though I really need to get something figured out before I go back to the track.
 
i would just do autozone rotors, and mopar pads, don't bother with slotted rotors. i just did autozone rotors and mopar pads and my truck stops as good as its gonna get, unless i was to spend 3-4000 on a brembo big brake kit. if they even make one.
 
EBC Brakes. They are barr none the best brakes I've ever used. I've tried other brands and they arent even close, they scare the hell out ofme tryin to get the truck stopped at the big end of the quarter. My EBC yellow stuff pads and slotted and dimpled rotors get er shut down before the sand.

This is my honest opinion. The EBC pads have lasted me about 8,000 miles and dont really show any signs of wear. But they wear out fast as they are the racing blend. The have Red & black stuff which are upgraded stock replacements, Green stuff, which i have used and loved, which are far better than stock and last quite a long time. They are their "endurance" pad.

I've used them for years and never had a single problem, fit and finish has always been great as well.

Go here to find dealers:
EBC Brakes - Brakes for Cars, Motorcycles, Trucks and SUV
 
EBC X 3 Love my slotted dimpled black rotors and yellow pads! Stop amazing, last forever, and online they are very comparable $$$ to a quality set of generic from a auto parts.
 
I'd would suggest going with upgrading the lines to steel braided to caliper, and flush the system with Dot 4. Castrol USA - Brake Fluid <-- this castrol stuff is the highest rated wet and dry DOT4 I can find locally. I used about 4 quarts to flush my 4.5 year old OEM fluid out. and another quart a few months ago (after a winter). this made a huge difference in it self!

you have a 2nd gen. Did you do a disk brake conversion on the rear? Are you considering this? EGR has a kit to do that. and I hear EGR brakes do well as well. EGR Performance Brakes, brakes for Dodge, Ford, Chevy, GMC, Tahoe, Yukon, Excursion, Dakota, Durango or whatever you drive.


They (EBC) do have their limits in the amount of "stop". For example, if you hammer on them at 130mph, you will get about 1/2 peddle travel to effect the rate of stoppage, if you need more, you will press further and get zero reaction outa the EBC's.... Not sure if that's the limit of the pad/rotor or the fluid heating up and the OEM lines expanding on me. One of these days I'm going to upgrade the lines.

I do run the slotted rotors with yellow pads up front and green in the back. Next time I'll go for the drilled and slotted. Last weekend I managed to "discolor" them a little. Still work as good as the day they where new.

I believe K. Frog assured me that the yellow stuff pads would bite good in the winter, and he's 100% right, no "warming up the brakes" are needed.

If you decide to choose another manufacture for parts and opt for a drilled set, Make damn sure the drilled holes do not intercept any of the "fins" between both sides of the brake rotor. I've seen a few threads and images where when they do the drilling process they compromise the integrity of the brake by drilling though these fins. Also, non EBC drilled and slotted rotors have been know to crack and fail. Do not compromise on this part, I'm sure you know this. However, make sure you do you research if you wish to save a few dollars.
 
and yeah, I like slowing down as much as I like accelerating, there's just something about getting your passengers white faced until you get on the brakes. :)
 
i heard that you can swap the 3rd jen brakes on a 2nd jen you just have to run atleast a 17" wheel. i havent done it yet but every one i have talked to says it really helps out.
 
JasonCzerak said:
I'd would suggest going with upgrading the lines to steel braided to caliper, and flush the system with Dot 4. Castrol USA - Brake Fluid <-- this castrol stuff is the highest rated wet and dry DOT4 I can find locally. I used about 4 quarts to flush my 4.5 year old OEM fluid out. and another quart a few months ago (after a winter). this made a huge difference in it self!

you have a 2nd gen. Did you do a disk brake conversion on the rear? Are you considering this? EGR has a kit to do that. and I hear EGR brakes do well as well. EGR Performance Brakes, brakes for Dodge, Ford, Chevy, GMC, Tahoe, Yukon, Excursion, Dakota, Durango or whatever you drive.


They (EBC) do have their limits in the amount of "stop". For example, if you hammer on them at 130mph, you will get about 1/2 peddle travel to effect the rate of stoppage, if you need more, you will press further and get zero reaction outa the EBC's.... Not sure if that's the limit of the pad/rotor or the fluid heating up and the OEM lines expanding on me. One of these days I'm going to upgrade the lines.

I do run the slotted rotors with yellow pads up front and green in the back. Next time I'll go for the drilled and slotted. Last weekend I managed to "discolor" them a little. Still work as good as the day they where new.

I believe K. Frog assured me that the yellow stuff pads would bite good in the winter, and he's 100% right, no "warming up the brakes" are needed.

If you decide to choose another manufacture for parts and opt for a drilled set, Make damn sure the drilled holes do not intercept any of the "fins" between both sides of the brake rotor. I've seen a few threads and images where when they do the drilling process they compromise the integrity of the brake by drilling though these fins. Also, non EBC drilled and slotted rotors have been know to crack and fail. Do not compromise on this part, I'm sure you know this. However, make sure you do you research if you wish to save a few dollars.
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SS lines help a lot IMO.

I didnt think they made them for our trucks, but i ve found some for 244.00 or so. One more thing to add to the list:bang

Thanks for listing the brake fluid capacity, i needed that. I plan on changing mine in the next week or so.
 
The first thing I would do is go to NAPA and pick up a set of rear wheel cylinders for a Chevy 1 ton truck. Look HERE for more info. They only take about an hour to install and the difference is unreal. Instead of the truck doing a nose dive when stopping the whole truck just kind of squats and stays level. Oh, they are only $9.29 each!!
 
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