Plagued by oil leaks

SFP12valve said:
it took me 3 hours to have a 7.3 stroker to go from pulling the truck in the shop to having the engine out on the floor.....i've pulled a few of those :D but yanking them out is the easy part
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Not trying to act like one that always has something better, but The quickest build I have ever had part in was with Lynn's 2wd puller. We started at 3:30pm one saturday afternoon, no oil pan, cam, tappets, front cover, valve train, radiator, intercooler, and quite a few other things in between. At 7pm the truck was running and loading up on the trailer to go to a pull in Hart Co. which was 45 minutes away. Of course that was Lynn, myself, and another friend of ours (goes by "camo" on here). Didn't think we could pull it off but we did lol. and that was with no alcohol consuption..... till we got to the pull that is lol
 
there's a lot of guys that can do jobs faster than i can, and to them i say "hell yeah." if there's one lesson i've learned in life its sit back and LISTEN to the pro's......you ALWAYS learn something you never knew before
 
exactly.... I've been here a while, and get on here everyday morning and night and I am always learning something.
 
I'm not fluent, but I'm pretty sure diesel is the German word for "oil leak"...
 
I am going to order the kit from snedge. Any tips from guys that have yanked one of these suckers before. I have pulled the 5 liter out of my coupe like 6 times already but this is whole new type of animal. I might have to build a stand out of lumber as the one I use for the 5 liter will not be able to hold it.
 
It pretty much the same as any other engine removal. You can leave the tranny in the truck if its an auto. I've seen it done with manuals aswell, but it can be a little difficult getting the tranny and engine mated back together when lining up the input shaft. With the auto, the engine will come in and out easily, you will just have to loosen the tranny mount bolts and slide it back a little after you have un bolted the torque converter. The converter bolts are accesible from the front passenger side of the block adapter. There is an access plate there that can be removed to get to the bolts. Pulling the turbo will make it easier to get to, but not nessecary. You will also need to pull the radiator, intercooler, and upper core support. Pulling the bumper makes things easier too. Be sure you have an engine hoist stought enough for the job too. Those cummins engines are very very heavy. Everything else is pretty much straight forward: un hook down pipe, fuel lines at the lift pump and the return lines, starter wires and grounds, and the engine harness.
 
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