Posi Unit for 03 f250

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Frans96ss

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Jun 7, 2006
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who makes a good posi unit for these trucks..... im sick of the gay ass one legger.....
 
I have a Detroit Truetrac...Its a clutchless limited slip
 
yeah i drive my truck everyday and a good bit at that.... how it is for daily driving?
 
Could get an air locker. Locked when you want it, and open the rest of the time.
 
The Detroit Truetrac is the way to go. Any L.S. with a clutch will not last, especially when you add some power. My stock L.S. lasted 9000 miles, only way it works now is to reverse and goose it a couple of times.
 
Just got off the phone with the wife....MY TRUETRAC showed up today!!!:cheer:

But I'm not home for another 2 days...:bang

I chose the Truetrac because there a no clutches to wear out, no need for friction modifier, no maintenance, no noise when turning corners, and it works EXCELLENT at the track!:Cheer:
 
I am going to pay someone to install it because I don't have the "knowhow" as to how to set it up properly.
And to me, it's to damn expensive to screw it up. I'd rather pay someone to do it right, than to try it myself, and wreck it.

I believe the "No-Slip" traction system is a "Easy-Install/Do-it-yourself", but I could not find anyone that wanted to sell it to me...
 
Some things are worth paying a pro to do. Imo that is one of them.
 
50stangpower said:
is this a backyard install??
Click to expand...


Depends on your level of mechanical ability and if you have the proper tools or access to them.

Simply replacing the carrier isn't too difficult of a task if you are keeping the same gears (gears aren't hard....just more involved).

You may have to play with the shims to get the proper backlash.

You'd pull the stock carrier....measure from the face where the bearing rides to the face of the flange where the ring gear is bolted to and then do the same on the new carrier and compare.

If they measure different you know how much you need to shim in order to get them setup the same way that they were. Once you have it shimmed where you think it should be you'd check the backlash and wear pattern to ensure that everything is properly setup.

(of course before you actually install the carrier you'll need to swap the tone ring and ring gear to it and install the new carrier bearings on it)

Improper install (too much shim or not enough) and you can destroy your ring and pinion.
 
DCSpecial said:
Depends on your level of mechanical ability and if you have the proper tools or access to them.

Simply replacing the carrier isn't too difficult of a task if you are keeping the same gears (gears aren't hard....just more involved).

You may have to play with the shims to get the proper backlash.

You'd pull the stock carrier....measure from the face where the bearing rides to the face of the flange where the ring gear is bolted to and then do the same on the new carrier and compare.

If they measure different you know how much you need to shim in order to get them setup the same way that they were. Once you have it shimmed where you think it should be you'd check the backlash and wear pattern to ensure that everything is properly setup.

(of course before you actually install the carrier you'll need to swap the tone ring and ring gear to it and install the new carrier bearings on it)

Improper install (too much shim or not enough) and you can destroy your ring and pinion.
Click to expand...

thanks... this is what i thought. i already ruind an 8.8 in the stang before trying to do it myself(gears). damn shims!
 
I wouldn't think labor charge would be too high just installing something like a Trutrac or Detroit....maybe $300?

An ARB would be slightly more since you have to drill and tap the diff housing, notch the bearing cap, route the copper air line in the diff and install the bulkhead fitting in the top of the diff.
Then of course install the air source (most commonly the ARB comp.) and route the air line from it to the diff.....unless the owner wants to do that on their own.


Also, I'd be sure to deal with a shop that has experience in differentials.
Some shops around here won't touch them, others will and after a little road time the whole diff will be FUBAR'd.............and then of course there are the ones who actually know what they are doing and do a good job.
 
I think that even if I DID have the right tools, Which I proly do...somewhere...I still have never done the install.
I already asked to be there when the mechanic does it, so I can see how it is done. He had no problems with me being there.

Kinda like riding a bike, once you do it a couple of times, I'm sure I wouldn't be scared to do it...But I ain't going to fall down on this project...too much $$$.
 
my thoughts exaxtly... my 8,8 rear was a 300$ mess up... i wish i could replace the gascap on this truck fro 300$
 
I was reading on Eaton's website about is the clunking sound normal and they answered yes. Does the TrueTrac clunk like some of their other diffs? Thanks for any info.
 
No, it does not clunk. Thats what the guy at Randy's Ring and Pinion said anyways.

I will let you know if it clunks next week when mine is in.

The clunking is NORMAL in the Detroit LOCKERS, not the TrueTrac's.
 
I had a Detroit in my 64 Falcon and that thing clunked big time. The first time I heard it, I thought I broke something
 
Yep, Detroits clunk when they engage and disengage.

They have since made them more of a "Softlocker" Detroit and they don't clunk as bad or as hard as the old ones.

On a long wheelbase of a SD it wouldn't be as noticeable as say a jeep...especially if you have an auto trans.
 
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