Proper re-torquing of studs

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sstockton

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I'm just getting my truck buttoned back up from installing the twins. While in I did a new headgasket and studs as well. How many times do I need to re-torque the studs before I am good to start getting on it hard and seeing how it does? I've heard mixed things so I just wanted to check and see what the general consensus was. My main reason for asking, is because I don't have a socket that will fit past the pedestal that the rockers mount on, so I will have to remove my rockers to get a proper re-torque. I really want to avoid removing my rockers and having to check my valves again 3 or 4 times in the first week or so.

So, Do i need to do it at 100,250 and 500miles, should I just heat cycle it a couple of times, drive it easy for a few days and then re-torque them or what. Or is there a better way to access them.

Thanks,
Sean
 
Buy a socket that will make it work with the rockers on, I would not suggest taking them on and off. After you put it on let it idle all the way to operating temp then shut it off. Go back and do a retorque after the entire engine is stone cold.

Drive it for like 3 days nice and easy, with several heat cycles. Then do a retorque while stone cold again.

Drive another week or so pretty easy again and do your last retorque, again on a stone cold engine.

Did you just put in a normal gasket by itself or did you do O-rings or firerings also?
 
I did two retorques on mine both with the motor hot. First 110, 125, then 140ft pounds
 
re-torques aren't as critical on a non-o-ring setup. Definately do your retorques, but don't lose any sleep over the thing
 
That's what I'm told too Forrest. Granted my studs were torqued in increments as he spiraled around, but no retorques since and its holding great a year later.

Torque
warmup
flog
torque
go :woohoo:
 
I didn't do o-rings or fire rings this time around. I'm going to be keeping it below 50-55psi. And it is just a regular head gasket. I did torque them down in several increments when I installed them the first time.

As far as getting a socket that will work. I can't see how that is going to happen unless I use an allen key and tighten the stud itself and not just the nut. The rocker assembly is too close to even squeeze a 3/8th drive socket by. So if someone knows of a socket that works for this, please let me know, or is it okay to just torque the stud itself?
Thanks for all the help so far guys.
Sean
 
You guys don't have anything on re-torquing without removing the rockers? I really can't see getting a socket over that nut for the ARPs under the rockers. And I really don't feel that comfortable tightening down the stud itself, the just seems like it would have the potential of bottoming the stud, which I've heard can be a bad idea.
Sean
 
You have to remove 1 rocker arm from each cylinder to do the retorque, whats the big deal ?? Thanks Steve B.
 
I just pulled all of my rockers off to make my life easy. After sitting on the dang passenger battery hunched over for hours I'm all for making that job easier. It's hell having a lifted truck sometimes.
 
Thats What I was originally thinking, and then the first reply was saying that he wouldn't suggest taking them on and off, like that was a bad idea. I don't really see why it would be though, so I just wanted a 2nd opinion I guess. But thats what I'll do is just pull the intakes again for the re-torques.
Sean
 
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