question about pulling stance

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dragracer238

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Dec 18, 2007
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alright so what ive gathered from my readings are to crank the torsion bars down all the way but isnt crankin them up what gives you the clearance to run 33s? or am i missing a link here. im totally new to ifs so please point me in the right direction
 
Most D-maxes I see pulling lower the trucks up front to keep from bouncing like crazy down the track. I local guy tightend his up to raise the truck and weight bracket and was bouncing so bad the front tires came off the ground a few times. Never could even get in to the throttle all the way.
 
yes, usually you have to crank TB UP to get clearance to drive on the street with a non-lifted Gm truck. For pulling, they need to be down as low as possible. This will help maintain susp. geomtery (which helps eliminate breakage) once you are pulling. Yes, your tires may (and likely will) rub while maneauvering in the pits but that's what you have to do.


C-ya
 
kino_fab said:
Most D-maxes I see pulling lower the trucks up front to keep from bouncing like crazy down the track. I local guy tightend his up to raise the truck and weight bracket and was bouncing so bad the front tires came off the ground a few times. Never could even get in to the throttle all the way.
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The bounce is NOT from normal Dmax suspension travel. It's when you screw with it and try to make it rigid (i.e., limiting straps / bolts / etc.) that you get bounce. Just about everyone who's tried such stuff finds out it's bad juju (including me). The front tire being off the ground is testament that the front was messed with.

Now, if you went stupid tight with the t-bars you may get a similar effect, but I haven't seen that personally.

Remember, lower your bars at the track and you can get around enough with the limited turning radius and lots of tire rub. I do a lot of sawing with mine and 35"s!
 
im thinkin some of the sts trxs. so i take it that its relatively easy to lower them on the chevys right? the one experience i do have with t bars is on a 1990 toyota 2wd and they were a pain to crank up
 
You need to take a 2-ton (or larger) floor jack with you to the track to take the weight off the front while you turn the screws. You can go down without it, but going back up it's pretty much necessary to jack. Incidentally, a liberal coating of ARP anti-sieze on the screws makes this much easier.

The real reason you lower the front is to keep the tierods and center link in as straight a line as possible. If you don't have tierod sleeves, don't pull just yet. You can nylon strap the center link to keep it from rotating and letting the tires toe in real bad. There's a ton of reading over on dieselplace.com on this exact subject...it's a sticky in ths sledpulling forum.

You can't go wrong with the Trxus STS on good clay tracks. You may need something else if your local tracks are gravel or mud.
 
well my local track is sugarhill ms. i havent been there but by the looks of it it looks like packed dirt. centerlink and tierods will definetly be on the truck before i pull so no worries there. could you turn it with a wrench kinda screw or is it impact wrench type
 
i think its 7/8 socket and breaker bar/ratchet, i cant remember the exact size of the t-bar adjusting bolts.......i know a few guys that use an electric impact on them cause they are fast.....
 
burtons sugar farm, my mistake. ok from what i remember on the toyota you had to unscrew the bolts pull out the keys turn the bars and put it all back together. same concept? or alot easier?
 
do you have to be real specific in turns and keep track of em or is it pretty general all the way up or all the way down

edit:nvm i just found a sticky on diesel place about it
 
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I use an 18" breaker bar and 18mm socket. I count the turns so I can get it back to where I started. When we ran no front hanging weight classes it would be 7-8 turns (which is almost out) and with front weights we'd do 5 or 6 turns.
 
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