race/street truck suspension

ehines218

ehines218

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Apr 16, 2014
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Im wanting pics of trucks fitting that description. My plans at the moment are to take my leveling kit off and then pull the overloads in the rear until the back sits about 1.5 inches higher than front as I like a little rake.
 
I have 2" drop springs in front, and running only 2 leafs in rear.
My truck is 2wd std cab, short box.
 
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I took the stock blocks out of the rear of mine and swapped in some stock f250 blocks (2") and right now my truck sits level. Mines 4wd with a 2" leveling kit so if I took the leveling spacers out it would sit how you want. So just get you some 2" blocks for the rear and try that. I don't know how to post pictures but I can text you some if you want just to get a idea
 
Sure man. 5092406104. And I'm wanting to take the overloads out to help with ride. Eventually I want to run all new springs and then airbags if I want to load the back up

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Here is my drag truck. Running 305/60R18 Toyos ST's on 18X10 Weld Rubicons. Factory front right now with a 2" rear block, top 2 leaves, cut the rear off the overload, and spring clamped the front. Best pass so far is an 11.808@114.39 and best 60' was a 1.538 running 22psi front and 17psi rears. Still weighs 6,800lbs.
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I can't get to my pictures on a govt computer, but if the link is still in my sig, you can see the pictures since 2012 when I lowered it. v6 springs in the front, shorter control arms, and removed the block and overload from the rear, shortened driveshaft about 5"
 
8upracin. I'm from southeastern washington and coom what I'm looking for in the end is a little rake in the back just for looks but to go at least down to stock height maybe a little shorter in the future but I have longer control arms now think I'll run into any problems with that? I'm fine with axle being pushed forward
 
madmikeismad said:
I can't get to my pictures on a govt computer, but if the link is still in my sig, you can see the pictures since 2012 when I lowered it. v6 springs in the front, shorter control arms, and removed the block and overload from the rear, shortened driveshaft about 5"
Click to expand...


What control arms did you use? Are they needed when lowering? Hope I don't have to shorten the shaft
 
Nice!! I've ran 4.5" lifted control arms with a leveling kit and stock because they're only 1" longer than stock. They will actually help for clearance issues on the fenders if your running wide offset wheels, but you might have to trim the bumper corner more.mif I were to lower the rear anymore I would probably have to shorten my rear driveline. The front end starts to get tight with a 3rd gen track bar bracket setup and a Magtech diff cover.
 
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That's one thing I'm worried about because I have tgc 3-6 inch control arms now. But I'm running wide wheels so if the Trac bar clears I should be good to go

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Removed rear blocks and all but 2 springs. Cut little over 2 coils off front springs. Still have the longer control arms on from the leveling kit. The front sits about 3/4"-1" higher in the front. The trans, transfer case, half the front sheet metal are off of it right now. 31" tall tires.
 

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Now that I like.. I need to drop mine on down some but I think I'm goin to need longer control arms
 
Removing the overloads won't do much if anything, they only come into play when you're on the bumps.

You'll want to pull leaves from the main pack.
 
I want to take the bottom overload out. The flat one it helps ride and lowers a tad. Eventually I want to remove the blocks and by springs with a softer rate

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ehines218 said:
That's one thing I'm worried about because I have tgc 3-6 inch control arms now. But I'm running wide wheels so if the Trac bar clears I should be good to go

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Click to expand...


Your arms are fixed, right? You would need to be careful with pinion angle dropping it much lower than the arms were built for
 
Yes but turns out they are the arms for a level so it should just push it slightly past center and after talking to cumminsdog on cf he pushed his 2 inches past center with no issues

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Definitely pay attention to the pinion angle. I'm pretty sure mine is jacked pretty bad with the same arms, but 2.5" lower than stock. Iirc you want 5(-5?) degrees of pinion angle
 
Bit of a high jack here. But it's along the same lines.

What is suggested for "racing" alignments? Toe, caster and camber.
 
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