rethinking power adders and prosses

shakedown96

shakedown96

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Dec 25, 2008
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two years ago I worked with a small performance shop in WV. the ideas behind there methods were much to be desired. the more a read the more I learned the one bounes is I got some super deals on some high priced parts. I would like to hear some options and make my truck a little more freindly to other drivers on the road (smokes alot).this is my truck:

96 auto 2x4, billet input, dunrite tripple/valve body, throtle stop ground (3800rpm), 100cam plate full forward, delivery valves ?size gained 12lbs boost with them, marine hd gasket, grade12 allen bolts holding the head on, sb300 from mountaner diesel (WV) wastgate blocked. peak boosst is 55lbs. this truck ran a 9.43in the 1/8 mile in ohio. before I broke an axel. never dynoed dont know hp tq #'s any guesses?

I know the charger will not last running it like this and yes there is way to much fuel. suggetions on how to retain the hp and extend the life of my parts would be great. its no mistery that times are tough. I may need to drive this truck to work. and not the peterbilt. twins are an option but they will have to be worth it.
 
How is your AFC setup? Those dvs wouldn't be full cuts would they? What injectors?

A good afc setup and dvs with shoulders do wonders for smoke control.
 
If you have laser cuts, you'll need to get rid of them for smoke control. I think 181's would be good for you. You will need to play with the AFC and get the truck to where it doesent smoke near as much. Do a search for AFC or AFC tuning on here and be prepared to do a lot of reading.

I ran a 9.4@71mph in my truck 2 years ago when i had my 181 delivery valves. It smoke a decent bit off idle, but once boost was up it didnt smoke a drop, and I could have took most the smoke it had out of it if i had wanted to tighten up the AFC. I didnt trap as fast as you, which means i had less HP, but i had traction on my side so i still ran a 9.4. I had a stock turbo with stock injectors and delivery valves out of a 96 5 speed truck.
 
stock injectors, dont know what size dv the guy said garunteed 100 hp by putting them in (75$) exchange. I can tell you this the only differance is where they were cut was 20 thousanths smaller than what came out. the seats were the same. hope this helps. as far as the afc goes the owner of the truck before me had it set to puff and go. I never changed it back then I was looking for all I could get. I went straight for the cam plate slid the stocker then cut it to a 10 then cut it to a 100. in perportion of course with exaust size witch ended up 5" off the turbo. I imagine if I slid it back I would reduce the fuel. before I go hunting dv's I will try this. as time has past I guess I am growing up and dont want to be a nucence on the road for other drivers but would stlll love to whip a few 5.0 mustangs now and then. buy the way I set the timing to 18.5* if any one was wondering. as far as at the track goes I cant launch my truck I have to ease in to it then after 2nd lock the converter and floor it bump it to 3rd and cross the line. with 3.54's in the 1/8 (short tracks only in ohio) I can't hardly get to od. this summer I plan on getting up to the vally and running the1/4.
 
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Yeah man, you need to look at your DV's and get that AFC and wastegate working.

What caught my attention however, were the head bolts you mentioned. Thats cool. I assume just the new gasket with no fire/orings?
 
What kind of strength are grade 12's at? I've never heard of that rating...
 
I was gonna ask about the bolts too.

I've thought about trying to find something like that. Stronger than the stock bolts, cheaper than studs.
 
ok heres the deal I get the bolts from fasenal they are allen head I also get the washers ther but hve to grind the centers to fit the bolts so they are closer to the bolt head. the bolts between the valve covers do not get wasers. torque them all in sequince to 90lbs then turn them 90 degrees. no retorque. I have installed these bolts one at a time before however if the truck is any ware close to 10 years old or 200,000 miles I pull the head chek it and install a new gasket.
use an impact socket and a cut off allen key. these bolts can be used over one time. I have broken these putting them in before not a big deal just reach down in with a flat head screwdriver and turn it out then pull it with a magnet. it may be nessisary to grind a "v" in the end of the flat tip to trun the bolt. last time I bought a set they were about 50 to 75 bucks. I have seen this set up hold 100lbs of boost at 20 to 22* timing on the pull truck we ran in WV. sorry I dont have part #'s or hardness. its in my file at home. those who want this info. I will post it when I get back from colorado on or near the 20th
 
Forrest Nearing said:
why on earth would you block your wastegate off? :confused:

drive pressure robs power
Click to expand...

I know Im over driving the turbo thats why I had to put a new one on last summer (warrenty for excessive end play) with the gate working it runns 35lbs i think. after I left WV they changed to charger and wastegate set up on the pull truck I think they installed blowoffs ect but I am not farmilliar with how they work or where to put them. thank you guys for the help.:what:
 
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