Rockwell help

young12valve

young12valve

teach me everything
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Sep 22, 2010
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Okay we are build a new 3.0 truck and putting a rock in the rear. Like the title says we need some help since a rockwell is a new ball game compared to a dana 80. So our truck is a 4 door long bed 3rd gen, going to be a open drive line truck.

We are wondering what rock is the best know there is a few out there the 106 the SQHD, what is the best, strongest, easiest to get.

Next what width is the best, I see some that are narrowed to 51 inches. This would tuck the duals almost under the fenders, and other advantage or disadvantage. If a narrowed rear is better, what should it be cut down to? Doing some math on a 3rd gen the frame is 42 inches from outside to outside, and if you have a 50 inch rockwell then you only have abour 5-6 inches of space to bolt on the inner dual wheel and tire.

Any help would be appreciated Thank you Cliff:Cheer:
 
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Sqhd or 20-145 would be your best bet. At 8000 the 106 is to weak. It will last but its on the edge of exploding. My axle is a 172 and is pretty heavy but hasn't laid down yet. Mine is stock width and with a 10" wide wheel has about 3" till it touches the frame. I would find a sqhd or 20-145
 
I agree SQHD or 20-145 is the way to go. I would say 20-145 because you can still find Alum center sections which is nice. Im not a Diesel Mod and only weigh 6200 so weight is a big deal for us. Go as narrow as possible to save weight. I went with a sheet metal housing and got the weight of my SQHD to the weight of the stock 106 I took out. In the Mod N/A 4x4 class the 106's are exploding around 1200+hp
 

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Narrower will be lighter, like they said, but also stronger. Wont be prone to bending/flexing so much.
 
Okay now that we have decided on a sqhd, the next problem like stated is cutting it down. You all say to cut it down due to it being stronger and lighter, but is it worth all the extra cost and effort to do so? Also yes it will tuck the duals inside the wheel well, but then the duals will be centered on the path of the front tire. Correct me if I am wrong.
 
Weight up front is the name of the game. Narrow, spool, new axles etc. Or put in a stock one and run it. Depends how serious of a truck you are building.
 
Its not worth the money to cut 3-4" off each side and have to buy new axles. I would run the 10 lug hubs and build a set of wheels
 
DISTURBED said:
Its not worth the money to cut 3-4" off each side and have to buy new axles. I would run the 10 lug hubs and build a set of wheels
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Exactly what I did. Works just as well and way cheaper. I knocked out every other lug and in 2 years, no problems.
 
u can build a sqhd for 4-5k or a 20-145 for 8-10k and u might be 100# lighter with the 20-145. i'm building a sqhd myself, for the $ i dont see the 100# being worth it.
 
We just bought a stock sqhd, so yes, people are telling me just to run the factory parts since they are rather strong.
 
Most newer sleds use an SQHD or 20-145 to drive the weight box. They're narrowed and mounted between the rails and use a full spool. Pretty indestructible considering they carry up to 20k+ in the box and have to stand up to the sled bouncing going down the track and it making the box jerk pretty hard as it goes does the rails.
Definitely a great rear end for a puller. 106's are iffy like disturbed said in this application. Good rear ends but if it lets go the R&Ps are getting harder and harder to come by.
 
If you want to narrow it go with TRB axle hub kit. They are nice and good to work with.
 
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