Rusted Injectors

I do agree with the above..get those heads off and magnafluxed..I wouldn't do it any other way..

As for the injectors screens..like said above they could have been installed that way..and I think the screen acts as a filter for the oil coming in,right? To not allow bits of trash inside the injectors..but I cant say for sure..I am no technician..
 
UNBROKEN said:
Anxiously awaiting 20,000+ dollar check for out of pocket motor swap expenses.....LOL
But thank you Doug for your generosity during the process...it's not forgotten.


OK..back on track.

I agree with whoever said to pull the heads and magnaflux them....being this far in already it only makes sense.
That water is coming form somewhere...and it's not coming from a burnt copper or a missing screen.
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It was on track. What works on the other million trucks rolling down the road is to clean the holes out so that any oil remaining in the hole doesn't throw off the torque number. Do what you want to in your truck, but 26 is what was tested to keep the bolts from loosening up. Too much or too little and they will loosen up. You think some guy at international was just calling out a number? It doesn't bother me what you did in yours. I do remember swapping out the first 8 that went back to Tadd with the stuff that was melted into the fuel inlets. The washer was designed for the stock application, why mess with it? He isn't building a crazy motor he is trying to find out what went wrong with it.
 
gotcha..

for the post above..strokin 6l don't forget when torquing the injectors down to compensate for lb ft loss from the extensions that you may possibly use..thats some wisdom from my buddy Doug...
 
MikeDually said:
Rich I've read from lots of posts on here that 7.3 washers will alter the spray pattern of the injector making it less efficient. Is that not true?

Nate would bench testing the head help get past the fact that the engine is not warm, and the crack is not exposed. Stupid physics question, wouldn't a crack be more pronounced when cold? Metal "shrinks " when cold, right?
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A crack would be more pronounced when hot, because it has expanded... so you can see it better. I am going to talk to our machinist in the morning to see if we can heat his pressure tank up... Im pretty sure that he can do that. Also we can magnaflux the heads as well.

I want to do whatever is in the best interest of Mike right now. I know that he doesnt want to have a ton of money wrapped up in the project at hand, BUT I also know that we are already so far into things, that pulling the heads off is really only a few hours away if needed... I think that pulling the heads off and having them checked out professionally would only aid in the repair, and it would also give a sort of satisfaction to Mike. Knowing that when it goes back together, that it will be a truck that he can hang on to for a long while, because when we are done with it, it will virtually have all of the shady parts removed.
 
Abrannan19 said:
gotcha..

for the post above..strokin 6l don't forget when torquing the injectors down to compensate for lb ft loss from the extensions that you may possibly use..thats some wisdom from my buddy Doug...
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I used the factory torque spec when torqueing the injectors down which i believe is 24 ft lbs. This is the first time i've heard of anyone going over. I can see going 26, just a couple over for an extension, but never heard of anyone torqueing them to 32. I'll keep this mind as i plan on upgrading to some different injectors.
 
Thanks for all the great feedback guys. Doug and Nate hit it right on the head and when they said I am just looking for a truck right now (20/20 hindsight) I probably shouldn't have bought, that will get me through to paying it off. I would love to hot rod the truck, but I got other responsibilities, hell I just sold my 69 Chevelle SS with a BB 427 that I had for 11 years.

I respect all the research and passion that you guys have for your trucks
 
Lets just add Some :nos: *nx* to it Mike. That will fix it!!!:hehe:LOLLOLLOL

Just kidding... to many :Cheer: to post anything useful tonight

We now return you to your regularly scheduled program
 
That's the best idea I have heard, if I blow it up, I may have more options. If I get it to catch fire and burn even better. All outta :Cheer:

Unfortunately.
 
strokin6L said:
I used the factory torque spec when torqueing the injectors down which i believe is 24 ft lbs. This is the first time i've heard of anyone going over. I can see going 26, just a couple over for an extension, but never heard of anyone torqueing them to 32. I'll keep this mind as i plan on upgrading to some different injectors.
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Right. How exactly are you going to know how much extra to torque it to? Sears vs S&K vs Snapon is all going to be different. And if the answer is it's not that big a difference between them, my question is why bother in the first place? If you're that worried about it, use an extension rated for an impact gun. I'd be more concerned that the threads are clean and properly oiled before making any measurements.
 
Got a bit of bad news fellas... We went to Ford this morning and got the injector cups, o-rings and installer/removal tools for the cups... Got them back to the shop and started to pull the cups. The bad news is that the heads have to be removed to get the cups out... It says so right in the Ford Workshop manual. In fact its the first thing that it tells you to do. :bang

I called the Ford Mechanic and got a TSB 08-23-8 Which I'm going to attach here also, It is about fuel in the coolant and injector cups vs. cracked heads.

The Workshop manual numbers are...
313-04C - Remove injectors
303-03 - Pressure test Cooling System
303-04C - Replace injector sleeves
303-01C - Replace cylinder head

Does anyone have anyway to post 303-04C? That is the WSM # to refer to for removing the heads to install new injector cups

Thanks in advance.

Sorry Mike, but it looks like the heads are going to have to come off whether we wanted to or not...
 

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Thanks Nate. Take some pics and I'll upload them to the same web album in the beginning of the thread
 
Here's some trashed o-rings I had and the reason the screens are there:

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Man that was a long time ago...note the F8 on the injector body....that's the 8th injector of the 6th set Tadd ever built.
 
Man, that middle one the second picture was melted up pretty bad. What happened there? Did the copper washer not seat or did the o-ring get rolled or cut when installing or when torqued?
 
All the lower o-rings failed to some degree. NO combustion got past the coppers. I was simply a case of some bad o-rings.
If you look below the lower o-ring you can see the Vaseline used to lube them during install is still there.

Yes....Vaseline. LOL
 
yeah, i used vaseline to lube up my o-rings as well. I've heard this works really good.
 
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