Safe RPM levels with stock parts?

gstanfield

gstanfield

Are we there yet?
Joined
Jun 27, 2006
Messages
777
OK, I should be ordering my gov. springs soon and was wondering how far you can rev the stock rotating assembly without destroying stuff? My wife is pretty understanding on my addictions (guns, motorcycles and truck parts) but she'll freak if I blow my engine to a million pieces and have to build from the ground up. The truck is just my travel vehicle with mostly highway miles, but it gets abused when running around town as I like to torment the kids in their pissed off chainsaws they call "tuner cars"

I don't "need" the higher RPM's, and will most likely go with the 3k kit anyway, just want to know what the engine is capable of if I ever start playing with it seriuosly.

Thanks,
George
 
Thanks, as always good info. With this in mind I should be more than safe for a long time at 3200RPM max, and still have power to play with the kids.

Soon, the fun begins,
George
 
I am about to get a 4k gsk. What are the tips and tricks for installation with NO problems. I HAVE read all of the manuals from piers and stuff but i am just wanting to know any tricks and tips for a trouble-free installation.
 
oldsmokey97 said:
I am about to get a 4k gsk. What are the tips and tricks for installation with NO problems. I HAVE read all of the manuals from piers and stuff but i am just wanting to know any tricks and tips for a trouble-free installation.
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Don't forget a good pencil magnet, using this to pull out the old springs is a heck of a lot easier than your finger. It also will help if you drop a spring seat into the pump like I did!!!
 
ok heres the specialty note that i am most remembering:
1. measure existing stud protrusion before messing with anything (note that measurement)
2. take springs out. Leave outer (idle) spring in place. Take out spring seat and any shims
3. put new springs and seat in. Set back to stock spece on the stud protrusion.
4. do other side.

is this correct???

Do both sides have to be the exact same measurement?? Because i am going to get both sides as close as possible.
 
my 97 has been to 4800 many, many times. it is all stock on the bottom end. the head gasket blew at 268k or so. when i pulled the head the cylinders looked great, as did the pistons. but the keepers were being pulled through the retainers. i got lucky when the head gasket blew, i was about to drop all my intake valves. i went with the ti. parts from haisleys.
 
is what i said about the gsk install correct???
is there anything that someone wants to add or suggests other than what i said??
 
oldsmokey97 said:
is what i said about the gsk install correct???
is there anything that someone wants to add or suggests other than what i said??
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You are pretty much right on from my experience, once your in there it will be a lot easier to understand. I stopped reading the inst. once the retaining nut came off, from there its pretty self explanatory. If you need a really good set of instructions there is one on Piersdiesel than you can down load but it looks like your ready to go.
 
gunracer1 said:
my 97 has been to 4800 many, many times. it is all stock on the bottom end. the head gasket blew at 268k or so. when i pulled the head the cylinders looked great, as did the pistons. but the keepers were being pulled through the retainers. i got lucky when the head gasket blew, i was about to drop all my intake valves. i went with the ti. parts from haisleys.
Click to expand...

WOW!!!

whats the advantage of turning it at that RPM? is it a lot faster at the track? how much? do you have 5k GSK? how does it run with normal driving??
 
From what I've heard, the 5k kit is not very street friendly. When I was shopping for a GSK I was told that unless I was racing or pulling a 4k would not be needed. I ended up with a 3k and am very impressed. I should've done that first before my plate and boost orifice. It turned the truck into a whole new animal. - Buck
 
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