I own a '02 2500 HD 2wd and I'm looking at doing a straight axle conversion using a Dana 60 out of a dodge. My axle choice is based on what I already have. Right now I'm looking for info and help to get an idea of what would be the best way to do the conversion. Any input is welcome.
SAS/Straight Axle Conversion on '02 2500 HD
- Thread starter LReiff
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I bought the truck pretty reasonable and it has a mechanics body on it so it comes in handy for service work. I could switch the body to another truck but this one came from factory as a cab/chassis so the gvw is 11k and that's higher than any single rear wheel pickup I've ever seen. I need 4wd for the winters we get and to get off road to some of the places I get into. I hate IFS 4x4...so it's got to be a straight front axle. 
SmokeShow
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many reason I was asking is because theres a few ways you can depending on your goals... there's more options if it's not a puller or racer or tow truck, etc.
If it's not gonna be used heavily with high hp you can probably just run a divorced np205 and mount either a pass. or driver's drop front axle out front. If you go driver's drop (like a ford axle or a 2nd gen or newer dodge) then you'd need a driver's drop 205. Think they were in old dodges.
The only concern with this method is that the ECM/TCM won't know that you've engaged 4LO and I'm not real sure what it's gonna think of the skew in the RPM vs. tire speed that it thinks it should have. It might only make the speedo read funny in 4lo or it might flip it plum out and go into limp? Not real sure. If it limps, it might be a code or limp condition you can turn off but I just don't know. It's not hard to get one to physically/mechanically be 4wd. The harder part is to get the elec. to understand if they get fussy.
If you want to use more than 500rwhp/1000rwtq in 4wd, the 205 may not always be up to the task. In which case, the conversion becomes a good bit more indepth as you'll probably want to convert that trans to 4wd and mate a 261 behind it like the factory did. I can go over most things needed for that also but will spare you until you indicate goals a little clearer.
later
If it's not gonna be used heavily with high hp you can probably just run a divorced np205 and mount either a pass. or driver's drop front axle out front. If you go driver's drop (like a ford axle or a 2nd gen or newer dodge) then you'd need a driver's drop 205. Think they were in old dodges.
The only concern with this method is that the ECM/TCM won't know that you've engaged 4LO and I'm not real sure what it's gonna think of the skew in the RPM vs. tire speed that it thinks it should have. It might only make the speedo read funny in 4lo or it might flip it plum out and go into limp? Not real sure. If it limps, it might be a code or limp condition you can turn off but I just don't know. It's not hard to get one to physically/mechanically be 4wd. The harder part is to get the elec. to understand if they get fussy.
If you want to use more than 500rwhp/1000rwtq in 4wd, the 205 may not always be up to the task. In which case, the conversion becomes a good bit more indepth as you'll probably want to convert that trans to 4wd and mate a 261 behind it like the factory did. I can go over most things needed for that also but will spare you until you indicate goals a little clearer.
later
The transfer case/abs/tcm/pcm/ecm and any electronics are the least of my worries at this point. What I'm looking for right now is ideas on mounting a straight front axle. What is the best way to do it, preferably with coil springs (dodge style) over leaf springs. I do have a dodge frame that I could cut the spring/shock towers off and weld to the chevy frame....
SmokeShow
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its been done that way but I can't speak on any details about it. that Ridin Dirty 3.0 pull truck has a dodge coil spring front end under it. I don't think they had to widen the dist. between the spring perches at all.
I'm also going to use a dodge 2nd gen d60 in my 83. The difference in the frame width and coil springs is within an inch or so. I'm pretty sure I can make that up with mounting brackets for the upper spring cup.
If you're going to do much towing, putting a sfa under it will require some lift to stay away from the oil pan and still have room for susp. travel. The lift companies claim that 4" is as low a lift as you can get away with but maybe you could make a one a little lower building it yourself?
good luck
I'm also going to use a dodge 2nd gen d60 in my 83. The difference in the frame width and coil springs is within an inch or so. I'm pretty sure I can make that up with mounting brackets for the upper spring cup.
If you're going to do much towing, putting a sfa under it will require some lift to stay away from the oil pan and still have room for susp. travel. The lift companies claim that 4" is as low a lift as you can get away with but maybe you could make a one a little lower building it yourself?
good luck
SmokeShow
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I doubt they'll be on here posting bout. They don't post much.
I'd suggest you free up a chunk of time & search "sfa conversion" over on pirate4x4. There's more on that topic over there than you'll probably care to ever read. LOL
Good luck! I'm curious to see how this turns out for you.
I'd suggest you free up a chunk of time & search "sfa conversion" over on pirate4x4. There's more on that topic over there than you'll probably care to ever read. LOL
Good luck! I'm curious to see how this turns out for you.
Jess@FarmboyFab
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Jess@FarmboyFab
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You will need more than oil pan modifications for that Dodge front axle under there. More like 6" to limit yourself to just pan mods.
I support your idea, but I honestly think it is a lofty goal sub 6"...with reasonable amount of fab work/money. Good luck regardless. I would love to see it done; something unique for sure.
BigDctd
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i know off road unlimited makes a kit. and im thinking youll be 4 or 6 inch also. for the price, leaf springs front end. but four links and coil overs are bad ass. i dont think you will fit a solid under there without lifting it or some major fab work. my 94 chevy with a solid axle, sits about as high as a dodge with a leveling kit maybe a **** hair higher, and thats with six under it. i also wanted to keep mine lower cuz i like haulin ass! with six inches i only have 3 inches between the spring pads and frame. so i dont have much up room!
Big Angry
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Hahaha, you never cease to put a smile on my face. :blahblah1:
Me thinks you'll need more than 3" (that's what she said!) to clear. ORU's smallest kit is a 5.5" There were several threads about it on DP as well, general consensus was that was about the minimum required to clear. You could go crazy and rear mount the engine, then you'd probably get away with 3" or less.
Good luck.
Ted, she said the motor has to stay up front! LOL
Well this clears things up a bit. The height of a leveled dodge would be ok. I don't need anything special for off road articulation, just a functional 4X4 so I'm not getting stuck in 6" of snow. I measured both the dodge and chevy frame widths...coils are going to be interesting!
Well this clears things up a bit. The height of a leveled dodge would be ok. I don't need anything special for off road articulation, just a functional 4X4 so I'm not getting stuck in 6" of snow. I measured both the dodge and chevy frame widths...coils are going to be interesting!
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durtymax
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I just got done doing this on an 05 chevy. we ended up doing a coil over instead of leaf springs also. mounting the buckets was the easy part for us. The hardest was mounting the 4 link up. theres just not alot of room when you are trying to keep it low. I had a 6" suspension lift with the ifs b4 i did this and now my front end sits just slightly lower. So im guessin 5 or 5.5" in the front is what i ended up with. I didnt have to do any pan modifications either. i have posted pics of it on diesel place
I'm using the complete front suspension system out of an '05 F350. The Ford axle is an inch wider than the Chevy IFS. Due to the Ford lug pattern being different I'm going to run 18" Ford wheels the whole way around, using 2" adapters in the rear.
Here's the truck I'm converting.
Thanks to F8LDOSE for selling me the complete front suspension!
The billet steel wheel adapters came from wheeladapter.com and Jim from Jim's Powder Coating put a durable black coating on them!
The wheels I bought from a local guy that put 20s on his '05 F350.
The 285/65R18 tires are retreads from treadwright.com.
I also bought a 4wd Allison and 263XHD locally to complete the 4X4/SFA conversion.
Thanks to F8LDOSE for selling me the complete front suspension!
The billet steel wheel adapters came from wheeladapter.com and Jim from Jim's Powder Coating put a durable black coating on them!
The wheels I bought from a local guy that put 20s on his '05 F350.
The 285/65R18 tires are retreads from treadwright.com.
I also bought a 4wd Allison and 263XHD locally to complete the 4X4/SFA conversion.
Another nice riding Chevy put back in the stone age with a straight front axle swap, what a waste.The factory frontend with tie rod sleeves and a good straight centerlink will last alot longer than that solid axle ever dreamed of and is just as tough or tougher. To each his own though i guess...