Shift kit ID.

B

bogurt

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I will be adding a little power to my truck and want to make sure the transmission is up to the task. My truck already had some tweaking done when I bought it and it already has a billet torque converter. I think my truck already has a shift kit but I can't tell for sure. My best guess is to check line pressure. Anything else I can check for? The shifts aren't jerky and feel positive. Lockup is a very positive engagement and feels almost instant. The only other ctd auto I had was on a 92 and they feel completely different. I really like the way it shifts as is and don't want to buy a kit if I don't need to. 96 eclb no fuel plate 63/65/14 4k gsk.

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bogurt said:
I will be adding a little power to my truck and want to make sure the transmission is up to the task. My truck already had some tweaking done when I bought it and it already has a billet torque converter. I think my truck already has a shift kit but I can't tell for sure. My best guess is to check line pressure. Anything else I can check for? The shifts aren't jerky and feel positive. Lockup is a very positive engagement and feels almost instant. The only other ctd auto I had was on a 92 and they feel completely different. I really like the way it shifts as is and don't want to buy a kit if I don't need to. 96 eclb no fuel plate 63/65/14 4k gsk.

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Tough to tell unless you tear it apart and see what is going on inside. The DTT kit I did and both the TFOD-2 and TFOD-3 kits required drilling in the valvebody and filing in some spots. Look for holes and file marks is about the only way that I personally could tell. Maybe somebody else has an idea.

edit: The shift kits mentioned above also came with new manual valves.
 
I don't have the book in front of me, but IIRC regular line pressure (again, can't remember which port you tap into either) was 60-75 psi, and with the shift kit it would rise to 120 with your TV valve fully stroked. I put a the full diesel TFOD into mine and if you could get the instructions you could compare the holes in the separator plate to the ones on a stock plate. It would be easier to throw a pressure gauge on it though.
 
stock is 60 at idle and 90 wot from the accumulator port. u can crank line pressure on a stock vb so thats not definitive.

pull the pan and filter. any anodized billet parts or beefy kickdown strut are aftermarket. look for a file notch in the vb at the end of the manual valve, and 1 or 2 holes drilled at the last bore of the switch valve to leak back to sump. thats the convertor release oil passage mods transgo suggests. sonnax will have you widen the notch in the separator plate there instead. epoxy will indicate it was returned to stock. blackish purple colored hardcoat anodize on valves is sonnax. a little hole and snapring in the end of the pressure regulator valve would also be a sonnax. two springs and two shims on the pr valve is transgo.

if you can backshift to 1st at any speed or lockup manual 2nd its definitely modded. tfod-hd2 kit will have a thin galvanized sheetmetal plate between the vb and 3-4 accumulator housing to do full manual backshift.
 
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