Shift kit vs. buy valvebody

StrokerDude

StrokerDude

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Jan 6, 2009
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Is there much difference between buying and putting in a shift-kit and buying a valvebody (Suncoast, goerend, dtt, etc).

It looks like on suncoast's website that they send their valve body out with some of the small billet parts like apply strut, anchor, and piston. I don't care about those things for this comparison because those parts can be purchased separately and come with their kits.

The main thing that I want to know is, how close to the big named valve-bodies do you get when buying a installing a shift kit?
Is a shift kit a good way to go, or do most end up wishing they had bought a valve body?


I am swapping a 24V into my Ford (Serious project, almost ready to tear truck apart, not tire-kicking), and trying to do a lot of my work before putting it all together. My goals are a minimum of 500hp, could end up going to 600 or maybe a little better in time. I want to make sure that whatever I do now is good for down the road too.
 
I just swapped a VB with a trangsgo HD2 out for one done up by TRE diesel.

I did not notice much, main factor i see is line pressure. stock VB was pushing 60-90 psi before I turned it up to around 140-150. TRE valve body was at about 110, and I turned it up to 150....still needs more. both valvebodys felt the same around that pressure, yet the TRE VB tends to come down to 90-100 psi at idle, where the stock VB only had a 120-140psi range

I was going to ask this same question on a technical basis. What items in a performance VB set it apart from that of just a shift kit? every one will say things like Limited just said, but what in a Vb from a big name company is better than?

for a max of 600 hp, I think you would be ok with just a transgo, but until someone chimes in with useful knowledge other than "just buy a good one" what do I know...
 
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Limited said:
Buy a good VB and never look back.
Click to expand...

Please expand on this. As it is right now that is a pretty useless answer.

The point of my question is that if I can get damn near the same thing by doing a shiftkit, I need to save the $500 right now.

This is for my work truck that is very very tired so I need to do my swap very soon, I'm trying to get as much together as possible before taking my truck apart.

Ahale2772-- thanks for you very useful answer and explanation.!
 
I DID SEARCH FIRST!!!!
I usually do, that is why my post count is so low.
and neither the search or the thread you linked answer the question.

Anybody can say go with xx and dont look back. Yes I'm sure buying a $600-$700 valve body is the best solution possible. But will a shift kit for a hell of a lot cheaper serve my needs. I am not building a 1000hp truck, only a measly 500-600hp.
 
I really liked every TransGo shift kit I ever installed. They worked great.
 
Always go overkill. If you think you might need it, you need it. My truck makes a "measly 500-600 hp" and I can't keep a trans together to save my life. Don't cut corners in the trans or I promise you will regret it. You need to go all out and spend 6 or 7 grand on the transmission if you want to actually use that power. I am assuming you have never felt 600hp before. Now a bunch of people are going to say you can get by without a full billet trans but that is just foolish. There is no point in making power if you can't use. Just do it once and do it right.

Or what else were you planning on doing besides a VB? If you can't spend 600 bucks on that then just forget it and get a different hobby.
 
Limited: Thanks for explaining a little better now. I found this helpful. I'm the type that wants to know why I do things, not just what to do. What trans builds or mods have you tried that were unsuccessful? how do you use your truck? (no attack, genuine question)

My previous truck a 6-leaker, I had up to a dyno-proven 500 rwhp so I do have a pretty good idea of how it will feel. That previous truck being 500 is why I have set my goal where I have. I figure getting smart and going with a Cummins finally, I HAVE to at least beat that truck.

I do plan on building the transmission. I have dumped a bunch of money so far, and a transmission build is going to have to be saved up for from some upcoming side-jobs.

Thinking my minimum start on a trans was going to be be something like DTT's 500hp kit. Billet input, TCC, shift kit, and all the little internal upgrades. Was thinking to wait on the output till I break it or have extra fund for it, as I have been told breaking it doesn't do other harm and is able to be changed easily.

I don't plan on racing all the time. I use this as a work truck (general construction), and of course some fun too.
 
My opinion is go anywhere but DTT. My trans started life as a full billet DTT, complete trans just swap it in and go. All 3 billet shafts, VB, everything that DTT makes, strongest trans that they build. Used an ATS Five Star TC and ATS billet flexplate though. My truck is around 550, 2.5 turbo Mach 6 injectors etc. This trans lasted less than 1 season, around 4 pulls I think before it grenaded. Lost 3rd and 4th, and reverse. Pulled it out to find that the input and output were both twisted and just about to let go. Truck also saw a total of 6 dragstrip passes, and that was split between 2 days. Now this transmission was supposed to hold much more than that. I put some blame on the TC and locking it in second racing, as this puts a lot of shock on the shafts. But everyone does it, you have to if you want to go fast.

So then I got a master rebuild kit from DTT and had it rebuilt locally (mistake probably). Replaced both shafts with 300M. Put the trans in and drove it real easy, topping off fluid and making sure everything was ok. Found I had a boost leak, jimmy rigged a fix on that. First time I got on the throttle somewhat hard (still leaking boost and making less than 40), it blew up again. Lost everything, truck will barely move. It might just be the TC but I don't know for sure.

The point is, what you were going to do will never hold. I promise it will not hold, you'll be pulling it out again, and wondering why you wasted so much time and money. Do yourself a favor and go to Goerend or Garmon or just anywhere else besides DTT.
 
I also find it comical that DTT advertises on their site that their billet shaft are the best. They are a nothing but a Sonnax repop and years behind other builder's shafts. Weakest billet you can buy.

Edit-mine were Sonnax anyway. Things may have changed in the last few years I don't know for sure.
 
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I have a nearly bone stock transmission (clutch wise) 300m input, upgraded internals , shift kit, and a used 5 start converter. It's held up to a drag strip proven 550. Has many street miles, and its held great for me. The same clutches had nearly 50 hard launches on the street and a the strip, the majority of those in the high 12 second range. Granted I blew up my fancy 100 dollar billet input, but that lasted a whole year of me Beating the piss out of it, money well spent in my opinion.

limited has good points, but I have had real good luck with my transmission built on limited funds.
 
Thanks for the input guys!
What would y'all think of doing the suncoast Mega 3 kit? Which actually comes with a shift kit. And doing and input and converter.
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
I have a nearly bone stock transmission (clutch wise) 300m input, upgraded internals , shift kit, and a used 5 start converter. It's held up to a drag strip proven 550. Has many street miles, and its held great for me. The same clutches had nearly 50 hard launches on the street and a the strip, the majority of those in the high 12 second range. Granted I blew up my fancy 100 dollar billet input, but that lasted a whole year of me Beating the piss out of it, money well spent in my opinion.

limited has good points, but I have had real good luck with my transmission built on limited funds.
Click to expand...

Borrowed time my friend. I can't believe the stock output has held on. You have indeed had "real good luck".
 
Limited, sounds like you have bad luck or a bad builder, or both. You could also be one of those guys that can destroy anything. Lol

I have had good luck with my home built Trans. Dtt vb kit that I installed along with their full rebuild kit with the goodies. I did twist a sonnex billet input that I got from them but I'm probably to blame for that. Still on stock int. and output shafts as well. Ran a few 11s and made 673hp on the dyno with me daily driving it. I don't buy their kits for the transmissions I build now, but piece them together with parts from different places.

The Transgo kits will hold the power if line pressure is up high enough and the rest of the Trans is setup well. I personally would never pay $600 for a vb, but I like to do as much as I can myself anyhow. That's the fun in it for me.
 
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