Slipping double disk clutch + leaky fuel return on back of head

J

JasonCzerak

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Aug 10, 2006
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Recently I had my head gasket done. For some reason we couldn't get the fuel return on tight at first, We got eventually since the drips almost stopped and figured it was just the last of it slowly burning off/falling down.

I've had the valve cover gasket leak 1 gallon of oil one day before I noticed and it took 3 months for it to stop dripping from the bell housing and motor area. So this is why I have this thought process :)

Well, it's been butt cold out and it's difficult to get under the truck and with snow and windy months, to monitor any sort of leakage this time of year. infact, it's rather impossible.

After a long 0 degree morning of driving we get home and I pop the hood to close up a winter blanket section while she sits off and I notice steam/light smoke-ishh color coming from the back of the head, I got a whiff of it and it's definitely diesel. so I'm still leaking. put my hand behind the head, it's fuel.

I just have a stage 3 pump, 150 injectors. TNT/R and a tiny little PS62 (and other supporting mods), The truck is definitely pulling harder then the 612hp level I dynoed at..

I have the SBC 3250 12CB double disk. I've head many stories of these holding 850+hp. really don't think I'm near that. I know a CR can make some crazy torque around 2000rpm (where I can slip it!), but am I really over that limit?

Or is there some how a way that the fuel is getting between the flywheel and pressure plate? the oil never did this with my ConFE with that oil leak, never missed a beat.
 
Friend had a similar problem, with a cracked line. Got it fixed, but it ruined the clutch.
 
Probably that banjo at the rear of the head . Did you replace the gaskets when you did the head?
 
you normally can re-use the washer stuff with a banjo bolt.

zstroken, How long was this friend going with a leaky and a slipping clutch before it ruined it? could I just be in time if I slip it good a few times once the leak is fixed? It it just clutch disks or would the pressure and floater plate need a resurface? What was the overall damage to the clutch?

right now, only at WOT does she slip and over 2500 holds good.

I'm going to pull the truck in the garage and see if I can fix it today I suppose.
 
My 3250 started slipping a couple months ago and it is due to a rear main seal leaking I will be replacing it in the next month

Danny
 
Well, I'm not going to replace the clutch anytime soon.. I don't think peter@sbc will charge me for a new set if I only use a few parts if i R&R this trans AGAIN for a 3rd time inside of 6 months. (really could of paid for a lift in my driveway by now with that labor costs)

argh, if it's not one thing, it's another.
 
The leak at the back of the head is most likely the washers. I had to replace mine when I did the HG, one had a slight nick in it and it was dripping. You are susposed to be able to reuse them, but some times you can't.
 
I washed much of the snow/dirt off of the truck and the heater is blasting air upfront to melt the water off. motor is to hot to get back there for a few hours.

I have 2 decent washers that worked on my supply line. so I should be good.

anyone got any good tricks to service this "worlds worst placed bolt". due to my dip stick issue, I do not wish to remove the fuel lines to get back there better, thinking going from the left side, but I do have my by-pass kinda in the way.
 
I laid across the motor and used a stubby wrench to get to it. I agree it is a pain to get to.
 
that's what i ended up doing. fixed thing right up. dry as a bone.

I'll call sbc tomorrow to see what kinda damage I may have done
 
i had the same problem with my seal on the return fuel line, pressure from the airdog just made it worse.

i wonder if i use a thin nylon washer under the little banjo bolt if the diesel will eat up the nylon?
 
cangrats on the hijack. deutz engines have black plastic washers they may be nylon. I would be worried about heat making them brittle. but they seen to be fine.
 
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