So how often does this happen?

BC847

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May 14, 2006
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This is an A1 head stud nut.

SplitARPNut.jpg


It was purchased with A1 brand studs and installed as per the A1 written instruction. Three hot-torques at 125ft/lbs after the initial install (a week or so in between). At the time it was run with a single charger for about nine months or so with a maximum boost of 38psig.
I've just completed installing twins and have been driving it for less than a week. Ran just fine last night when I shut it down and had no indications of any problems. Fired it up today and drove gently fetching a soda and noticed some antifreeze bubbling from the stud between #5 & #6.


What'cha reckon? :ugh:
 
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nut and washer look very dry did you use and moly lube on install?
Yup, every time it was re-torqued as well.

The antifreeze has washed things clean I suppose combined with the fact it's been in service for nine months.
 
I had one break in the block during a re-tourqe and one strip the threads out of the nut. I even bought more lube to make sure everything was covered. But Greg hooked me up with ARP and they want to evaluate the whole set and possibly ship me new ones.
 
To be fair to everyone, I must point out what I've learned.

This set of studs, nuts and washers came from Haisley's Machine.

The written instruction I used in installing them was from Haisley.

In talking with them this morning, at one time, they used ARP nuts and washers with A1 studs. They have since switched to using all A1 components in their stud kits.

With that, I don't know who's nut it is. All with Haisley are at the races in Texas so it'll be next week before they can look at it hard. In the mean time, I've got a new stud'n nut on the way. :)
 
Whatever became of this issue? I am having the same trouble now. So far i have found three nuts split right up the side like the one in your picture. I am wondering about the whole set now??? what did Haisley do about your set?

Dave
 
Vann Haisley dang'ed near hurt himself over-night'ing me a full replacement set. They included a return shipping tag as well. :bow:


I can't say enough good things about the Haisley crowd. :clap::clap::clap:

The replacement set is doing just fine using the Garmon method of torquing. My 'ol VE fueled 1st Gen ran a 13.54 this past Saturday at the Rockingham International Dragway during the Mopars/NADM event. :woohoo:
 
so you want to ellaborate on garmons method of torquing cause his 155 on stock head bolts is impressive
 
so you want to ellaborate on garmons method of torquing cause his 155 on stock head bolts is impressive
I torqued the studs initially by the common spiral method bringing them up to 120 ft/lbs. With the engine cooling fan removed, I then started the engine and letting it idle, had it warm up till the thermostat opened and shut it down.
After letting it cool overnight, I did the so called Garmon method of bringing them up in 5 ft/lb increment, 30 minutes apart till done. (I stopped at 135 ft/lbs / I did not remove and relube the nuts as it didn't need it).

NOTE: I use a nice digital torque wrench that clearly shows that once the nut is initially pulled up to a given value, and held there it is easy to see the nut slowly ease on around while maintaining the constant pull. The long studs will stretch enough that the nut will come around almost a quarter turn before it finally settles to the given torque value. I do this for each nut with each increase in torque.

It's really interesting to see how much the studs stretch / the gaskets and O-rings crush when the stud/nuts are torqued as such.



I've drove the snot out of the mess since seeing up to 65+ PSIG with no retorques/issues (knock on wood). :)
 
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do you know how high you can torque the h-11 studs to not just the regular a1 studs i think im lookin a gettin them from haisley
 
do you know how high you can torque the h-11 studs to not just the regular a1 studs i think im lookin a gettin them from haisley

I'll check the directions on the set I just bought and get back to ya. I want to say 135...?? iirc.
 
how long did that take for you?
Don, with the engine cooling fan removed, I recall it took the stone-cold engine about 45 minutes give or take for the thermostat to open (perhaps 50*F ~ 60*F outdoor air). Once the engine coolant temperature was up to the minimum mark of the normal operating range, I increased the idle to 1000 rpms or so.
With the thermostat opening, naturally the temperature guage dropped quite a bit (normal). I still let it run till the temperature was well on its way back up before finally shutting it down for an overnight cool. :)
 
I think the directions from haisley for the H-11 studs was 140lbs.

Someone correct me if I am wrong

Adam
 
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