SSR New Release Info and Results Thread...

Moved it back to 30 or 15? please retype that post and clear the data points up?

Are you seeing more smoke on the higher number? I've noticed if you start to pull the HLD back less then 16 higher rpm power serverly falls off fast and soon.
 
Sorry...T-15/30 R-20/40 D-30/30.... Moving the rail from 20 to 30+ caused the power loss at 2900, not falling off but actually stopping, like it was a rev limiter. Timing also made the best power at 30 or 40, didnt make much difference, only about 5hp. Does that make sense?
 
bransoda said:
Maybe some of you guys with allot more practise with the SSR can help me. Had my truck on our dyno, dyno dynamics today playing with some tuning. Stock it made 433.5, TNT, SW9 with timing on 2 and rail on 4 made 720.6, SSR setting 15/30 20/40 30/30 made 775.8 but stopped pulling at 2900, almost like it hit a brick wall. With the TNT and stock setting it did fine. The only thing i notice that would fix it is moving my HLR to 20, then the truck would pull to 3300ish but only made 660. Move it back to 30 it made 720 but still hit a wall at 2900. Rail psi stayed at 27ish the whole time. I'm at a loss.
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Timing is the most important part. Did you follow the SSR tuning sheet? Ignore the low numbers that's for driving on the street the high numbers are your all out power numbers. Bump your timing up or down to the best power then work on the other settings read the tuning sheet a few times till it clicks!
 
I followed the tuning sheet to the tee. I feel i have the timing dialed in pretty good. I picked up power till i reached 45 at which point it lost power, played with timing between 30-40 and didnt really see much difference, only about 5hp, so i left it at 30.
 
hmmm looks like a pair of new smarty jr files possibly up, maybe a chance for something new here soon too.
 
Bob posted in the UDC thread, mentioned more in depth knowing of what is going on.
 
I cut mine down to 23/30 timing, 20/20 rail and 20/30 duration.
I ran it pretty hard tonight and pushed quite a bit of water out. Soaked everything back to the firewall after 3 hard runs. Think I might have finally hurt a head gasket.
 
1st the body damage, Now the engine. Sounds painfully expensive to live in your shoes.
 
UNBROKEN said:
I cut mine down to 23/30 timing, 20/20 rail and 20/30 duration.
I ran it pretty hard tonight and pushed quite a bit of water out. Soaked everything back to the firewall after 3 hard runs. Think I might have finally hurt a head gasket.
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I think that's how I lost mine, at least it was a part of things.
 
Actually seems ok. Who knows...it pushed some serious water last night though. With as much timing as I had in it maybe it just got hotter than hell. I did 4-5 back to back hard runs.
 
The settings don't seem excessive in any way. Did it pressurize the cooling system, or external leak (besides the cap...)? Running the MLS head gasket?

Paul
 
Mine pressurized the cooling system and blew the rear frost plug, and coolant across all the exhaust ports. Once pulled the gasket looked great. Like Sneged told me my studs could have backed off some as well. Like I said a combination of things on mine.
 
Oh it's the factory mls gasket. Maybe the early cr's don't do well with that much timing?

Edit: I don't mean to point a finger at it being timing as what caused the failure. I'm really not sure why it happened. I'll have to look back at my notes but i think I was running hlt 40. Runs good at that though.
 
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paulb said:
The settings don't seem excessive in any way. Did it pressurize the cooling system, or external leak (besides the cap...)? Running the MLS head gasket?

Paul
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Mine were cranked way too high when it pushed water out. Only out the cap though. Looked all over and under it today...nothing around the head anywhere.
Stock MLS gasket.

Who knows...no bubbles in the coolant tank while it's running so I'm gomna go with I just got it too damned hot.
 
I still have the grid heater light staying on and it is not a code, is there a solution?
 
huck25 said:
I still have the grid heater light staying on and it is not a code, is there a solution?
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Mines still doing it also, just not as frequent as before. Maybe once a week now. Its definitely smarty related. Ran stock tuning for 2 weeks and no problem. Load smarty up and it came on 15 miles down the road.

tapatalking from droidx
 
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